I've got an el-cheapo IP camera that is taking on moisture in heavy
The body is two cylinders joined on an o-ring set into a channel.
Before I got nuts with the silicone seal, is there something more
disassembly-friendly that I can smear on the o-ring to enhance the
resistance to water penetration?
My kneejerk is Vaseline - but, with my luck, that would attack the
Your best bet would be to get a set of dental picks so that you can take
the old O-ring out, and then just put a new O-ring, or one size larger
O-ring in for a better seal.
Here, I wrote up a blurb about O-rings while I was posting on a board
before I came here. Lemme find that write-up.
In the interest of brevity, I lied a little about the o-ring. It's a
custom shape to accommodate a few screw holes.
I think I'm going to go the silicone grease route. If that fails, I'll
just remove the o-ring, set the joint in marine silicone sealer, and
hope I don't need to disassemble it too often.
> widely used rubber for making O-rings, and so not only will every O-ring
> you ever need to buy be available and in stock in nitrile rubber at any
> place that sells O-rings, but nitrile rubber O-rings are very much
> cheaper than any other kind of rubber O-ring. An O-ring that costs 12
> cents in nitrile rubber will cost 2 dollars in EPDM rubber, and it's not
> because EPDM rubber will last 20 times as long. It's because there's 20
> nitrile rubber O-rings made and sold for every EPDM rubber O-ring made
> and sold, and it's mass production and greater availability from
> competitors that brings down the cost of nitrile rubber O-rings.
> O-ring Seal" just about 10 threads below yours. That will explain
> everything you need to know about O-rings.
> sell's O-rings in your area to get his comment.
I looked at the diagram for the pool pump you posted. In my experience,
that large and small O-ring together shouldn't cost any more than $2 or
$3 in nitrile at any shop that sells O-rings. The manufacturer will
charge you $25 for those two O-rings as a repair "kit", but only people
that are scared to buy anything but OEM repair parts would ever pay that
much. Maybe just take your old O-rings down to any place that
specializes in pneumatic and hydraulic seals, and they'll size the
O-rings for you. EVERY O-ring meant for plumbing applications I've ever
come across has been 70 durometer hardness, and so if you buy 70
durometer nitrile rubber O-rings to replace what you have, they should
work fine for you.
I wouldn't go close to my camera case with plumbers putty!!. You can
do what you like with yours. Silicone Grease has been the standard
solution for this problem with divers and photographers for almost 30
years (possibly even longer) - because it works and does not cause
other problems. It is very easy to purchase, use, and remove.
I'm going to Home Depot today.
Hit the local hardware store, and could not find anything explicitly
"Grease". A lot of "Silicone Compound" stuff - and I even have a tube
of that already..... but I'm guessing there is some significant diff
with "Compound" vs "Grease". In fact, the stuff I have looks more like
lubricating gel that grease.
The "o-ring" on an underwater camera case is not a round o-ring you
can readilly get a replacement for - it is generally a pretty long
o-ring formed to fit the perimeter of the case.. And no dental pick
required to remove it.
Some kind of grease is the answer, the issue is that vaseline might be
perfectly safe for some kinds of rubber and not others, the same may be
true of silicone grease (likely one or the other will work though.)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Most of the comments thus far have helpful.
I would suggest avoiding the use of vaseline & stick with the silicone
lubes, valve stem lube, etc (compatible with rubber O-rings).
Depending on the exact design of the camera & O-ring sealing
means.... moisture could be getting in through a different route.
Another thing to consider...sometimes over tightening can reduce
Use a silicon grease made for sealing against liquids. Fountain pen
owners use it to seal ink reservoirs. You can buy it in small
amounts that won't break the bank:
Inspect the oring with a minimum 5X magnifier for excess or negative
casting flash. Make sure the oring is does not have cuts or defects.
Inspect the oring grooves for scratches or dings. You can smooth 'em
out with some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. If all is well, grease 'er
up and reassemble.
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