Even if they got slightly warm, they would not ice-up during freezing
rain - which they certainly do.
What does happen is that on hot summer days, they will sag - and it was
exactly this sagging that caused one high-voltage line in Ohio to sag
and touch a tree, starting a fire and starting a cascade shut-down of
the power grid of the whole east cost in 2003.
On 3/14/2011 9:50 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Did you build it? If I got that right, the DC generator was fed from
the output so it operated as a motor? Can't help but wonder how it
would perform with today's lithium ion batteries. Did it have anything
to reverse the process to slow the car and charge the batteries? Maybe
I built it, and yes it did have SOME regenerative braking, but not a
whole lot. Full feild it at speed, and it slowed down real quick, but
only on full voltage.
Lithiums would definitely have been the cat's meow!!
there's a device called Kill-A-Watt that measures power consumption,very
simple to use.
some utilities have loaner programs so you can borrow one instead of buying
one. they cost about $22-30 USD,depending on where you buy.
There is a consumer device called a "kill a watt" which will show you the
running cost of an appliance. The local big box stores carry them now, as
does HF, for under $30.00.
Alternately, sometimes you can find old utility meters (a watt-hour meter)
for sale on the surplus market (or ebay, such as
http://cgi.ebay.com?ViewItem&item70491570813 ), but to safely use on you
would want to get the box it plugs into.
Oh please, I thought everybody knew about these folks. You can buy a
refurbished single phase meter for under $20.00 from Hialeah Meter. :-)
Measuring wattage you can use a CT amp connection, but you also need a
direct connection to measure voltage, at least for loads with a power
factor other than 1. I have not seen a watt meter with CTs that was very
cheap. An old utility meter is cheap (but takes a little more work to
You can get the newfangled modern external digital auxiliary power
meters that also measure voltage and the CT's are inside the electrical
panel and they're not cheap but they're easier to install than a power
meter on the incoming main lines outside.
Get a "Kill-A-Watt" meter. Roughly $30. Anyone can use it.
Various functions of the "Kill-A-Watt" are:
* Amps (true RMS, with AC this is not necessarily what most ammeters read)
* Volt-Amps (volts times true RMS amps)
* Watts (With AC, this sometimes differs from volts times either
true-RMS or non-true-RMS amps)
* Hours since you plugged in the meter
* KWH consumed by the load since you plugged in the meter
My experience is that watts are rounded down in some way, and the meter
can read low by up to about 1 watt.
- Don Klipstein ( firstname.lastname@example.org)
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