electrical wall switch question

[~^Johnny^~]

[badgolferman]

The sink disposal stopped working today. It has a wall switch the controls an outlet below the sink which the disposal is plugged into.

I hit the reset button even though it had not popped out on my year-old GE disposal and that didn't work. I plugged a circuit tester into the outlet and flipped the wall switch several times; that didn't work. I flipped the dedicated circuit breaker and it didn't work.

Finally I took the wall switch apart and examined the wiring. The whites were tied together and the blacks went through the switch. However the blacks were pushed into two holes on the back of the switch and the terminal screws were completely undone. I turned on the breaker again and checked for power at the terminals and there was 117 VAC present. I screwed in the terminals and checked the outlet again with the circuit tester and all was well now.

Two questions: Why were the wires not on the screw terminals and in the holes? How did it start working when I pulled the switch out of the wall?

[RBM]

Many residential grade switches have both push in connections and screw terminals. My guess is the switch is damaged internally and although it's working now, it'll probably quit soon. I'd replace the switch and get a commercial grade or 20 amp switch

[Olaf]

It was back-wired. You found out why that's not such a good idea over the long-haul.

The wire(s) started making acceptable contact in the switch for at least temporary operation when you pulled on it. You can move the back-stabbed wires and conect them up more safely to the screw terminals.

[Kevin Ricks]

There is a big difference between 'backwire' type outlets and the 'backstab' type. With the backwire type, (Levitron in the red box), you put the wires into holes on the back and then, (you must), tighten the side screws. This tightens the terminals inside against the wires and is very secure. Backstab outlets as you said, have a spring clips inside that sorta bite into the wires and is mechanically independent of the side screws. These often fail in time especially with higher loads. Kevin

[~^Johnny^~]

[~^Johnny^~]

[toller]

News to me. Can cite a code section? My recollection is that the devices say what they are made for; I used a backclamp on #10 a couple years ago because it was a 30a switch designed for #10. But perhaps it has changed.

[Bud]

The #10 "backclamp", I presume, required the screw to be tightened. This is a reliable connection.

At issue are the devices where the wire is just poked in and spring tension makes the connection - the screw does not have to be tightened. These are called "backstab" at least on the newsgroups and the consensus on the newsgroups is that they are not reliable (although they are UL listed). I thought someone posted that the holes now were only large enough for #14. (My collection of older 15A receptacles took #12 wire.) You are right that the device should say what wire is permitted. They cannot be used with aluminum or stranded wire.

Bud--

[Kevin Ricks]

To confuse things even more the manufacture refers to the 2 types as Quickwire push in terminals and clamp type backwire.

[Terry]

Agree: Suggest always eliminate those (non screw tightened) back-stab outlets or switches etc. whenever found. Although never recall having one fail or blow up, certainly in this house we do.