I have been trying out those Easy Back Drywall Clips for repairing some
patches in a remodel I am doing. Problem is they only stock 1/2" in the
stores so I have to improvise for 5/8". The problem is that when I go to
screw the drywall to the clip and by the way I have had the same problem
with screwing a cleat inside of a patch hole where there was no stud, the
screw always breaks the paper. When screwing into fresh drywall, this never
happens. What do I do? Is it a forgone conclusion that if it breaks the
paper, I am going to have big problems? I have a couple of these behind a
tile wall and wonder if I should rip the patches out (4x4" or so) and redo
using another method. It seems tight but don't want the patch to pull away
I would suggest using a couple of 1" x 2"s behind the whole in the
wall. First cut them to be longer than the hole. Then take a wood
screw and screw it into the middle of each one. The screws are used
simply to hold onto. Now take some white wood glue and apply it to
the face of the board on each end of the two boards. Insert the
boards into the hole and pull on the screws, so that the boards are
being glued to the backside of the inside of the wall, until the glue
sets up enough to let go. Then when the glue dries, remove your screw
handles then you can cut a piece of drywall big enough to fit in the
hole and either screw it into the boards or glue it to the boards.
This method works very well for patching medium size holes. You can
vary your board sizes for smaller or larger holes. Most important is
to use a good strong glue.
I guess I don't understand why you feel the need to GLUE the strips.
I would use the 1x2 but just attach them with screws through the "old"
drywall. Cut the patch to size and drive screws through the patch into the
wood strips. Apply compounds to the screw heads and the gap between the
patch and the old stuff. You might considered using "patching plaster"
rather than joint compound. Use several applications and remove "high
spots" with your dry wall knife immediately after application. The goal is
to reduce or eliminate the need for sanding.
If the "patch" is over pipes that you may have to access again in a few
years, NOT using glue will at least give you a shot of just unscrewing the
boards. (A magnet may locate the screw heads under the compound or patch.)
The reason I gule and screw the backer strips is because that is the way I save
Tommy Silva do it on an episode of Ask This Old house. It is also detailed to
do it that way in the Home Depot Home Repair Manual.
I acutally did this repair without gluing and so far my patch has held up. I
can't see why gluing would be bad. I did not do it because I had not seen the
episode of ATOH or bother to read my copy of the Home Depot Manual. It you wait
for the glue to dry, before screwing the drywall nails in, it helps keeping the
strips in place.
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