Drywall install question

Don't tighten the screw down so hard.

blocking?Don't tighten the screw down so hard.

It's natural to want to angle the screws toward the center of the stud but that pushes the compressed and brittle edge away from the rest of the tapered part..try going straight in,,as in 90degree angle..Leaving the screw a tad bit less than recessed (as Doug stated)will help too but just a tad bit or it will interfere with taping..If all else fails You can use const adhesive and only enough screws to hold it to the studs,,the glue can be spotted every 12" or so or aplied in a small continuous bead(or any combo),,drywall nails may cause less "blowouts" too,,the field(center studs behind sheet)can still be screwed normally..Also when screwing dw the most screws(normal conditions)should be recessed without ripping the paper,,this gives the best strength and longer lasting good results..Screws that rip the paper do'nt need to be removed,,just add one an inch away,,they can both be mudded as one at each coat.. Dean

Are you using real drywall screws? The common type is Phillips head and the drivers are the shrouded type that allows the bit to cam out when when the screw is flush with the surface. Using a cordless driver with these and the torque setting less than max ought to solve your problem, Good luck.

Joe

I thought once that since some rooms are 8 feet tall, that sheet rock went verticle. I was corrected and told that horizontal makes seams better to hide.

A quick question, are you using a drywall gun, or a regular cordless?

tom @

If you want to figure out how drywall should be hung, mud your own work. I now hang everything so that the seem is the most accessible part. Plus having one seem at chest height all around the room is a lot easier and ecstatically pleasing.

Whew - usually drywall seams don't get me ecstatic, but to each his own, I guess. If this is just one corner you're working with, it seems like it wouldn't be too hard to add another 2x4 (or even 2x2) screwed right on to the existing one, which would give you plenty of wood for the screw to "bite". Not sure if there would be any code issues with this, but it seems like it would be a fairly straightforward fix. Good luck, Andy

FYI when possible install drywall horizontal. If you are a novice they have preformed corner strips metal and paper combo for a nice corner Use usg Lightweight joint compound easier to sand If you have some really bad areas to fill use durobond to fill in. (Nightmare to sand so don't overfill ) Use a big stirrer in your 1/2" drill to stir the compound to a soupy consistency" Do not use it right out of the bucket I suggest you go to usg drywall I think their site has tips on installation Jack" wrote in message news:B9Ivh.7632$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe22.lga...

I've found through my own exeriences that using the dimpler takes quite a bit of finesse when installing drywall. The natural tendency is to try to tighten it down like you would any other wood joint, but really it doesn't take much to get the drywall tight. I've also found that the dimplers don't work like they're advertised and in fact often times won't cam back until it's too late.

a regular drywall screw gun works great however. Very fine adjustable. Well worth the under a hundred they cost on ebay.

"ecstatically pleasing."

ha ha ha

I believe the man meant;; aes=B7thet=B7ic or es=B7thet=B7ic (s-thtk) adj.

I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small tradgedies sometimes.. Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally.. I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Dean

I hung them vertical because the walls are about 7 feet, plus I have no butt joints. Being a homemoaner, not a pro, anything I can do helps. . Thanks to all for the advice. A softer touch with the screwgun has eliminated the blowouts.

I believe the man meant;; aes·thet·ic or es·thet·ic (s-thtk) adj.

1. Relating to the philosophy or theories of aesthetics.
2. Of or concerning the appreciation of beauty or good taste: the aesthetic faculties.
3. Characterized by a heightened sensitivity to beauty.
4. Artistic: The play was an aesthetic success.
5. Informal Conforming to accepted notions of good taste. n.
6. A guiding principle in matters of artistic beauty and taste; artistic sensibility: "a generous Age of Aquarius aesthetic that said that everything was art" William Wilson.
7. An underlying principle, a set of principles, or a view often manifested by outward appearances or style of behavior: "What troubled him was the squalor of [the colonel's] aesthetic" Lewis H. Lapham.

I'll guess Architects were the ones to get that word going in the construction world..If the OP really meant it exactly as He stated then a new career is in the wind for Him..Never stop posting because of spelling or misuse of a word,,things left unsaid/unasked are small tradgedies sometimes.. Back in the day,,,My old Boss said that drywall sheets were hung horizontally to improve overall strength of the wall by tieing more studs together..When the butt joints are staggered/offset all the studs work together..Partition walls and firring walls can be hung vertically but structural walls should be hung horizontally.. I think hanging vertical sheets translates to more linear feet of tape to finish so it is a trade-off,,,easier but more to do,,this depends on the length of the wall tho..Vertical hanging is good when natural light hits the wall from an angle,,nat light shows all.. Dean

Personally I prefer "ecstatically" since it suggests great job in the the work being done.

ec·stat·ic - Being in a state of ecstasy; joyful or enraptured.

tom @

It's all good,,"ecstatically aesthetic",,One might say..Or would that be vica-versa? Visa-versa?vicey-versy? Whatever! I'm just a dumb drywaller with a propensity for the inane anyway!! Got Budweiser? Dean

Actually, in my experience natural light usually is coming through a sidewall window and striking the wall more or less horizontally. So, hanging drywall horizontally with horizontal seams has the light shining along the ridge formed by the finshing of the seams. Resulting in fewer shadows. Vertical seams cause the light to shine across the seams with creates shadows at each seam. Ergo -- I find the seams are less obvious when hanging the drywall horizontally. YMMV

replying to Jack, Iggy wrote: I'm glad you stood up for and went with a Vertical Installation! It's the *only* right way and gives you the intended Fire Protection. Horizontal is by and for Hacks.

Exolain please. Professional drywallers everywhere dissagree with you - and for good reason.

I understand some drywall installers prefer horizontal installation but I am curious how NFPA feels about a taped joint vs solid drywall in the 15 minute fire rating. It is also easy to argue that the taped joint across the stud bay is not as strong (against impact) as one that is over the stud.

I believe the NFPA is silent on the subject, and there is never more than 14.5 inches between supportd (assuming 16 inch centers) The big advantage is you don't have floor to ceiling joints to telegraph through every 48 inches, Vertical joints are MUCH more visible than horizontals due to the way light interacts.