On Sun, 05 Feb 2006 14:18:08 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Drywall on a basement ceiling is a pain if you need to access any
mechanicals, run wires, pipes etc., but you probably know that.
You might consider the Ceiling Max system that allows you to mount 2x2
o 2x4 ceiling tile flush against the ceiling joists:
I used it in a small area of my basement. It was a bit fussy to put
up (no worse than a dropped ceiling), but looks nice enough if you
don't hate ceiling tile. And while it's not as easy to access the
space above as with a dropped ceiling, it's a lot easier than drywall.
IIRC, one of the major ceiling tile manufacturers also has a zero or
low clearance mounting system.
(you know what to leave out)
I looked at the tile system but I understand that you can not box
around HVAC Ducts. I have the main HVAC supply line that I have to box
around. I've also moved all my electrical wires to one side of the
wall next to a gas pipe and would also box around this too. The gas
line and the wires are on one side abut 20 in from the wall. I intend
to box around them unless I can find something removable.
Is is ok to leave a juction box or two under the ceiling - they are
just passthrough connections.
On Sun, 05 Feb 2006 15:03:57 -0500, Paul Franklin
Save yourself a LOT of grief, put up a suspended cieling.
Otherwise any leaking pipe, wiring upgrade, or other repair will be a
no doubt you will put the cieling up anyway....
just remember my warning when you have the problem, because eventually
covered workboxes are not legal, and might cause home sale problems
The trouble with that stuff is that the evenness of the ceiling tiles depends
on the evenness of the bottoms of the joists -- which is to say you can't get
it anywhere near as straight and flat as you can a conventional suspended
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
On Mon, 06 Feb 2006 00:46:25 GMT, email@example.com (Doug Miller)
True, but I shimmed the worse couple of spots; minor variations really
It also doesn't work if you have pipes or wiring below the bottom of
the joists, unless you furr it out past them.
Just piling on. I have ripped drywalled ceilings out of two (very old)
houses cause (a) there are inevitably problems in old houses and (b)
you can't find anything with that drywall in the way. Also if you get
a little water leak it can make a bloody mess by the time you find out
you have a problem.
I cut rough sawn strips 2-3/4" wide, plane one side smooth to 1/2" thick,
nail smooth side to the bottom of the floor joists with finish nails,
centered (use screws to attach ones where there may not be room to raise
panels for removal), cut 1/2" drywall to lay on top of these strips between
the floor joists, install by turning up at an angle and laying in between
the floor joists, stain rough sawn strips, paint drywall panels.
I ran a solid strip length wise below the joist bridging and where lights
were installed, this made a natural breaking point for the 8' pcs. running
A person from the list who did this, from my suggestion recently, used sound
deadening panels instead of drywall for the panels between the joists and
was very pleased with the results.
You might consider taking photos of the ceiling before applying the
drywall...also make a map showing where the wiring, piping, ducts, etc are
with dimensions locating them from wall, corners, etc so that should you
have a problem later above the drywall, you'll have an idea of whats above
that might be causing the problem. Maybe avoid removing more drywall than
necessary to get at problem.
Thanks guys ...here is an update:
I have succeded in moving all but two junction boxes to an area along
an exterior wall. If necessary, I can have the section below the
boxes removable ( Its 2 ft wide by 6 ft long). Any lighting sytems
will alos be supplied from this area.
Having done all these, I am still open to other ideas. I was at the
local Home Depot (Toronto, Canada) and the only alternative to
suspended ceiling that I saw was a ceiling tile 12 x 12 in that could
be stapled to wood strips.
I have seem the CeilingMax system suggested in one of the posts - I'll
look around the other hardware stores tomorrow.
I'll keep you all posted.
I got a download book called Basement Ideas, not too bad of a reference.
Despite all the nay sayers on the drywall I would say go for it. It looks
100X better and is much less expensive. you can cut and patch the drywall
many times over and still not come close to the cost of some type of drop
ceiling. May everything out, install access panels for things like shutoff
valves. Plan on cover plates for electrical junction boxes or re-route them
to a utility area. use a flat paint as to not exasperate any irregularities.
Thanks for your comment, I do understand. I am taking measures to
prevent such a problem. My electrical box is accessible. Only half
of my basement is finished and will be having the ceiling. I have
also rerouted 95 percent of all electrical wires, TV cables, telephone
wires, to one side of the room, along a wall and will have one or two
access panels in this area. I will also be having some spare
electrical wires run and a fishing rope or line for future expansion.
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