I live in Toronto. I have an old (c 1920) brick home with an
unfinished basement. I would like to drywall the basement to give it
a bit of a finished look.
The walls are dry. There is some efflorescence on the brick below
grade. It powers and bubbles a bit, but it is a slow growing process.
I believe that what I need to do is put 1x3 wood strapping on the
brick, and drywall over the strapping.
1.) Any tips on fixing the strapping to the brick? Tapcons will be a
very laborious process. Can I use masonry nails to lag them onto the
brick (or mortar)?
2.) That done, any special tips on dealing with the drywall?
Don't use regular drywall- use the non-paper-coated stuff. Basement may
seem dry, but even slight humidity over time will give drywall that
funky basement smell. It costs a little more than regular drywall, but
IMHO it is cheap insurance.
Good idea, however, if you really need the space, I've used 2x2s. A
2x2 can serve as the plate and header. You can nail, glue, or screw
the 2x2s to the wall in a few spots to keep it sturdy. In my case,
the bottom was concrete and the top was old brick which was
efflorescing (sp?). The wall was extremely uneven, but I attached
it where is seemed strong sometimes using shims to make the new wall
plumb. And, in Canada, insulate as much a possible, using 2" foam
and a vapor barrier.
In the past, I usually Thoroseal the foundation walls. It makes a
nice finish and seals it good. Then I frame with 2X4's using wood
studs and metal tracks on the top and bottom, makes it easy to put in
the studs.Then I use regular R-13 batts w/ paper vapor barrier. I use
the mold/mildew resistant sheetrock (green or purple in color) just
for an added protection.
I like the 2x4 solution suggested by others as the best choice.
If that doesn't work for you apply at least 4 mil plastic over the bricks
before you add your 1x3 wood strapping.
I would use exterior, galvanized fasteners if I did not use Tapcons.
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
Sorry, I don't follow why Tapcons are labourious compared to driving
masonry nails. Do you have arms like The Hulk?
Tapcons, a 1/2" hammer drill w/ masonry bit and an 18v cordless drill
with a long driver bit is pretty quick unless you don't have anybody
to hold the furring up to the wall for you.
On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 14:06:06 -0800 (PST), Ian Stock
First thought -- old brick has a nice warm feel about it. Maybe keep
a feature wall.
Now, to your question:
1) If space is at an absolute premium, you can drywall against the
brick, assuming the wall is reasonably plumb. I'd just PL Premium
the board against the brick ... drill a few tapcons INTO MORTAR
JOINTS to hold the board while the glue sets up. You can remove these
screws or not, later.
This doesn't deal with insulating and vapour barrier -- you're better
off and warmer with (2).....
2) If you can spare four and a half inches, frame a wall in front of
the brick with two by four, insulate with R12 and poly, then board
in the normal way.
special tips on drywall ? Just the usual.
Figure out ahead of time how you will get the board into the basement.
Drywall companies will deliver AND PLACE the drywall into the
basement, assuming you're doing more than just a couple of hundred
square feet. Board and delivery usually works out to what you'd pay to
wrestle the stuff home from HD or such.
Order lengths (8, 10, 12, 14 footers) to fit wall lengths. Google
installing drywall to see how to fit into room walls.
Ceiling first, then walls. If you can find a pro who will board and
tape for you, grab him. Save you money and aggravation.
If you can't, download a video and invest in some tools.
LOL = lots of luck.
Ken in Calgary
Here in Florida, most houses are concrete block. Common insulation is 1"
foam sheets. Drywall is nailed to 1" *pressure treated* strips which are
nailed to CB with a pneumatic nail gun. In Toronto, I'd want more
insulation; hell, at the moment I'd like more here too :(
Bricks are usually laid with the outside edge true. This may mean the
inside can be a little wonky. If this is the case you wont be able to
fasten to the wall.....so check your wall with a straight edge before
you start attaching framing to it.
WARNING: In Toronto, in fact all of Ontario, exterior basement walls MUST by
code be insulated before drywalling, check your local building inspector or
at least watch a few "Holmes on Homes" TV shows on HGTV. If you cover the
walls, you will eliminate air circulation that keeps them warm and any
moisture evaporated, block this airflow and humidity in the house will
migrate to the cold outside masonry wall and condense, running down the wall
wetting the drywall, wood supports and your floor, resulting in mould and
water damage. There are specific requirements to prevent this problem, check
out how to properly do the job to prevent damage and having to do it over
correctly. Advise from people in other climates will not apply.
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