I live in Toronto. I have an old (c 1920) brick home with an unfinished basement. I would like to drywall the basement to give it a bit of a finished look.
The walls are dry. There is some efflorescence on the brick below grade. It powers and bubbles a bit, but it is a slow growing process.
I believe that what I need to do is put 1x3 wood strapping on the brick, and drywall over the strapping.
1.) Any tips on fixing the strapping to the brick? Tapcons will be a very laborious process. Can I use masonry nails to lag them onto the brick (or mortar)?
2.) That done, any special tips on dealing with the drywall?
That's what I did over block walls. Also added a layer of polyethylene film over the block first and insulated between the 2x4's. Did not need to attach to wall.
Don't use regular drywall- use the non-paper-coated stuff. Basement may seem dry, but even slight humidity over time will give drywall that funky basement smell. It costs a little more than regular drywall, but IMHO it is cheap insurance.
Sorry, I don't follow why Tapcons are labourious compared to driving masonry nails. Do you have arms like The Hulk?
Tapcons, a 1/2" hammer drill w/ masonry bit and an 18v cordless drill with a long driver bit is pretty quick unless you don't have anybody to hold the furring up to the wall for you.
First thought -- old brick has a nice warm feel about it. Maybe keep a feature wall.
Now, to your question:
1) If space is at an absolute premium, you can drywall against the brick, assuming the wall is reasonably plumb. I'd just PL Premium the board against the brick ... drill a few tapcons INTO MORTAR JOINTS to hold the board while the glue sets up. You can remove these screws or not, later.
This doesn't deal with insulating and vapour barrier -- you're better off and warmer with (2).....
2) If you can spare four and a half inches, frame a wall in front of the brick with two by four, insulate with R12 and poly, then board in the normal way.
special tips on drywall ? Just the usual.
Figure out ahead of time how you will get the board into the basement.
Drywall companies will deliver AND PLACE the drywall into the basement, assuming you're doing more than just a couple of hundred square feet. Board and delivery usually works out to what you'd pay to wrestle the stuff home from HD or such.
Order lengths (8, 10, 12, 14 footers) to fit wall lengths. Google installing drywall to see how to fit into room walls.
Ceiling first, then walls. If you can find a pro who will board and tape for you, grab him. Save you money and aggravation. If you can't, download a video and invest in some tools.
Here in Florida, most houses are concrete block. Common insulation is 1" foam sheets. Drywall is nailed to 1" *pressure treated* strips which are nailed to CB with a pneumatic nail gun. In Toronto, I'd want more insulation; hell, at the moment I'd like more here too :(
Good idea, however, if you really need the space, I've used 2x2s. A
2x2 can serve as the plate and header. You can nail, glue, or screw the 2x2s to the wall in a few spots to keep it sturdy. In my case, the bottom was concrete and the top was old brick which was efflorescing (sp?). The wall was extremely uneven, but I attached it where is seemed strong sometimes using shims to make the new wall plumb. And, in Canada, insulate as much a possible, using 2" foam and a vapor barrier.
In the past, I usually Thoroseal the foundation walls. It makes a nice finish and seals it good. Then I frame with 2X4's using wood studs and metal tracks on the top and bottom, makes it easy to put in the studs.Then I use regular R-13 batts w/ paper vapor barrier. I use the mold/mildew resistant sheetrock (green or purple in color) just for an added protection.
Bricks are usually laid with the outside edge true. This may mean the inside can be a little wonky. If this is the case you wont be able to fasten to the wall.....so check your wall with a straight edge before you start attaching framing to it.
WARNING: In Toronto, in fact all of Ontario, exterior basement walls MUST by code be insulated before drywalling, check your local building inspector or at least watch a few "Holmes on Homes" TV shows on HGTV. If you cover the walls, you will eliminate air circulation that keeps them warm and any moisture evaporated, block this airflow and humidity in the house will migrate to the cold outside masonry wall and condense, running down the wall wetting the drywall, wood supports and your floor, resulting in mould and water damage. There are specific requirements to prevent this problem, check out how to properly do the job to prevent damage and having to do it over correctly. Advise from people in other climates will not apply.
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