Drywall

You could stagger the 1/8" so that the drywall ends are under the middle of the 1/8" boards.

Would OSb instead be acceptable? This is a detached garage/shop.

There has been a lot of debate about that in another thread. OSB burns pretty readily. OSB is also difficult to finish as it's surface can flake off.

I am building a garage and would also like something less fragile than drywall as a wall covering. But so far I have not found any drywall alternatives that are price competitive and somewhat fire resistant. If you figure something out I'd like to hear about it.

My idea would be to glue these white painted 1/8 panels to the osb. WOuld this work?

I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's not what I would do. Install the first layer of covering starting at one end. You will need to cut the last sheet vertically to make it fit. Then start at that end and add your 1/8" going back in the other direction. This will offset your seams. Frankly I'd also go with the drywall as I see no advantage to the osb since you are covering it with something harder. You could even save some by using the 3/8" drywall.

Just put the drywall up in a horizontal fashion and then the 1/8" boards vertical and don't nail or glue right on the horizontal drywall tapered joint.

Don

Do your garage in 5/8" drywall and you meet fire codes in some areas. That thickness is not really 'fragile' unless you run your Escalade into it full tilt. Finish off with those trick hanger panels for tools and such and it will look rather nice. Plan on an epoxy floor finish and you'll be one happy camper.

Joe

Thing is I am not crazy about mudding the drywall

What does that mean? Do you not trust your taping skills? Not sure of your construction, but if you run the boards vertically, and use long enough boards, you'll only have to tape the tapered edges abutting - piece of cake.

Why not just put up T1-11?

Acceptable to whom? Your wife? Probably not.

"jamesgangnc" wrote

Depends on local code. My detached garage had nothing inside, just the open framing. It is not a living space so it did not matter. Codes may vary from town to town though.

I did, however, insulate it and drywall it because I use it as a shop and heat it in the winter sometimes.

han

Afraid it will look bad and take forever. It is 30x30 with 10 feet ceilings. I would have a few butt joints but not many.

han

In a garage can I put just enough compound to cover the mesh tape and it look ok? (It is a garage, not livign space). I would paint the walls maybe semi gloss white thoguh for light.

I plan on using 5/8" in the ceiling because there is living space above. But I disagree about the fragility of drywall for the walls. I use my garage a lot for projects. And you bang a 10' long board into drywall accidentally and you have a big gouge. You bump it rolling a jetski around and you have a gouge. It is fragile. Hit it with anything heavy even lightly and it gets damaged. It's easy to say don't do that but it happens. And I have a 30x28 garage so putting up expensive hanger boards all over is not an option.

1. Taping is easy and fast. Way easier and faster than hanging, YMMV.
2. It's a garage, doesn't have to be perfect, no need to taper joints way out or even at all.

This is a detached garage, right?

If so, why bother with drywall? It's main purpose is fire retardation and that's usually not much of an issue in a detached garage.

Drywall has only a minuscule insulation property (R=0.45) which can be almost matched with 1/4" plywood (R=0.31).

Gloss, or semi gloss will accentuate every tiny imperfection. Use flat.

han

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With 10ft ceilings, why not sheetrock above and some thing more gouge- resistant around the bottom 4 - 6 feet?