If I were to put drywall in my garage, then cover with the pre painted
water resistant 1/8 inch boards at Lowes, would the tapered ends of
the drywall be visable? I am debating going with OSB under those or
There has been a lot of debate about that in another thread. OSB
burns pretty readily. OSB is also difficult to finish as it's surface
can flake off.
I am building a garage and would also like something less fragile than
drywall as a wall covering. But so far I have not found any drywall
alternatives that are price competitive and somewhat fire resistant.
If you figure something out I'd like to hear about it.
I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's not what I would do. Install
the first layer of covering starting at one end. You will need to cut
the last sheet vertically to make it fit. Then start at that end and
add your 1/8" going back in the other direction. This will offset
your seams. Frankly I'd also go with the drywall as I see no
advantage to the osb since you are covering it with something harder.
You could even save some by using the 3/8" drywall.
Do your garage in 5/8" drywall and you meet fire codes in some areas.
That thickness is not really 'fragile' unless you run your Escalade
into it full tilt. Finish off with those trick hanger panels for tools
and such and it will look rather nice. Plan on an epoxy floor finish
and you'll be one happy camper.
What does that mean? Do you not trust your taping skills? Not sure
of your construction, but if you run the boards vertically, and use
long enough boards, you'll only have to tape the tapered edges
abutting - piece of cake.
Agreed, but I thought the OP was concerned about how his tape and
spackle job looks. I'm doing my garage also... when in the mood. I
just looked at it today and realized my ceiling should look good since
the fluorescent fixtures are hanging down about 1 foot. My last garage
had the lights up on the ceiling which also makes imperfections stand out.
Yep, one coat is fine. Like I said earlier, if you run the 10' boards
vertically, you won't have any but joints and the tapered joints are
the easiest part. They're almost hard to mess up.
Look at this another way - a garage is the perfect place to practice
your taping skills, so when the opportunity arises inside the house,
you'll be ready.
There are pluses and minuses to any wall covering, but drywall is the
easiest to repair if it does get dinged. If you expect the walls to
take abuse, 4' high paneling over the drywall would be the ticket.
Nope. There'll be corners at the corners, not butt joints. You'll
have taped inside corners, and corner-beaded outside corners (if there
are any in your garage). Butt joints are non-tapered edges meeting on
a flat wall. The corners are just as easy to do as the tapered edges
if you have an inside corner taping tool. They're cheap, too, and
well worth the money.
I just bought a stainless corner taper thing for the same thing,
finishing off a garage. This is my second attempt at tape and spackle
and with what I learned since the first job, this one is going much
better. And yes I got 10' rock for the 9' 4" walls and am hanging it
vertically. I'm finishing the first phase of the job now and I think
I'm doing a lot better than the first time. (the garage is half full of
stuff already so I'm doing about 1/3rd at a time. When this is finished
I move stuff to the newly finished wall and start on the middle.) I
bought a drywall lift new for $200. Best $200 I've ever spent! The
ceiling is actually easier than the walls! When I'm finished, I'll sell
it for $250. ;-)
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