Hi Gang Can schedule 40 pvc pipe be used for a dryer vent? AND does anyone know of a dryer vent hood that actually CLOSES after the dryer goes off? Previous owner installed one without any kind of damper. No wonder cold air is pouring into the basement. Thanks, Chas
Don't know about pipe, but I've seen vents to the outside with louvers that open when there is output and close when it stops. I wouldthink Sears or HomeDepot or any appliance store would have this.
I don't have this, but I have an indoor/outdoor box, and when I have set if for indoors, which is any time cold enough that I might run the furnace, the door inside the box goes up and closes off the duct to the outside vent. It has a removable lint screen to keep lint from blowing around the basement.
When the door is down, it closes off the output to the inside of the house and routes everything the outside. No lint screen in that direction but there is one in the dryer itself.
I think this all works pretty well, but I suppose I should check if cold air is leaking in. (I'm around there a lot however and haven't notcied any.).
Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
I just put one of these in a clients kitchen vent:
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She had one of those louver type vents but it leaked like crazy. She had rags stuffed in the louvers and every time she used the stove she had to run outside and pull out the rags, replacing them after. The unit works great and the people were very nice to deal with. She thinks it looks cool and needless to say is very happy. We actually ordered 2 and the other one is waiting to go on her dryer vent. If you order 4 shipping is free. RIchard
louvers wont seal anything , batticdoor closes and drops down an inch for a fairly positive seal. Louvers leak...Imaging taking 3" pvc vertical, and dropping a closed
31/6" cap on it, it seals, when dryer blows air pressure raises it, non powered louvers can`t ever provide a positive seal of airflow. and dryer types ive seen are cheap by design and build.
I have no idea why people reply to innocent questions in this manner. However, if you paid attention to my question you might have perceived that it was sparked by frustration with all of the cheap closers available that either get stuck in the open position, or never work as advertised. The fact is the previous owner is an engineer, and why he would have installed a non-closing vent is beyond my comprehesion.
Engineers don't have any great knowledge outside of their specialty.
Unless the guy was familiar with building and construction, he wouldn't know what to do. Or the teenager working at the box store said "this will work", and he didn't know anybetter.
I've seen louvered type that will actually close, or a vynal type with flap the metal ones stop working after lint gets into the hinges.
tape the wall up and stick the end of the dryer vent hose end down into a 5 gallon bucket of water, put a brick on it to hold it down in there. free lint free heat
One of my best clients is a former professor of mechanical engineering. Most of his house repairs look like Rube Goldberg stuff. It just reinforces my conviction that profs teach but don't necessarily do. I get to joke a lot with him. Y'know stuff like, "and of course that would follow from the 3rd law of thermodynamics" or "perhaps if we looked at this in a relativistic way" Richard
I never heard of that one! Very interesting, but does the dryer have enough pressure to push the air thru the water? Also, won't that pump a LOT of humidity into the basement? Chas
Thats a waste of your time, and effort. Run the dryer vent like it should be, with metal duct and get a decent termination cap for it and be done with it. If you want humidity in the home, get a humidifier installed on your furnace. Its called RELATIVE humidity for a reason.
And while moister air will indeed hold more heat, using your dryer to get teh sometimes blast of it is wrong.
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