OUr water is all ground sourced -- much "blended" from CAP.
A home without a softener will have a crust around each
faucet aerator in short order. It will be removed only by
*breaking* the hardened deposits (you can't "scrub it off").
Our last water heater lasted ~20+ years without being
regularly drained. By the time it failed, you could hear a
large "boulder" thumping around inside (impairs efficiency).
Speaking of a water heater our Kenmore 9 year warrantied one on it's
16th year quit this morning(massive leak). Tomorrow one is being
intalled and I was given a choice between A.O. Smith or Bradford White
NG burning 50 Gal. unit. One is better than the other? I am wondering.
Absolutely, at least for Sears and AOSmith.
I cut one of mine open and there was a layer like vinyl, about 1/4",
clearish, a little whitish, translucent. I had to work to pry it away
from metal shell and it bent, with much more effort, like a uninflated
basketball. Eventually I got parts of it inside out, but even then,
there wasn't a chance of its breaking or leaking .
Used a reciprocating saw to cut it open. I'm too cheap to replace
worn blades and eventually there were no teeth, but it cut almost as
fast as before. Cut it in about 5 or 10 pieces and threw it away
with the trash.
Now, imagine trying to remove -- for the purpose of repair -- something that
screws *into* a hole MANUFACTURED in that "glass bowl"... without cracking
the glass (which won't cause it to leak, in itself, but *will* eventually
defeat the purpose of the glass (preventing corrosion of the supporting metal)
and cause a premature failure.
The same is true of the temperature/pressure relief valve on the top of
the tank (and the sacrificial anode which screws in from above).
I.e., the SUGGESTED maintenance activities all pose significant risk.
Is your water heater tank several thousand gallons? :>
Would you rather I'd said "glass lined, formed sheet metal"? :>
Sure it is! When you break the drain or TPR, you're going to wander down
to HD/Lowes and probably end up buying a BRASS replacement part. Then,
you're going to screw this into the existing hole -- making sure it's
a good, tight fit.
This puts strains on the metal and the glass fused to it.
Note that the manufacturer has undoubtedly tweaked his "process" to economize
on the amount of glass fused to the tank structure (both to save on material
costs as well as energy costs). He's also tweaked the related components
to save there as well as minimizing any losses that he might incur
assembling the units!
You can bet your *ss that he hasn't factored the homeowner's (unskilled)
actions into this, down the road. And, plumbing professionals would
sooner recommend replacing the entire tank than fitting a new valve
("Mr Smith, I could replace the valve for $250 -- which might get a few
more years out of this tank -- or, get you a whole new tank for $400")
I.e., there is no incentive for the manufacturer to make the unit
"robust" and "repairable". They *know* the TPR will only be activated
rarely -- and, the tank probably replaced when that happens. Likewise,
they *know* you won't be regularly draining the tank so they also
know you won't be replacing that crappy valve!
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 11:24:56 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
Uh, have you ever put a wrench on a water heater fitting? Ever take the an
ode out? Takes serious muscle. It doesn't distort the tank. Obviously th
e fittings are designed to take a load.
My point about the bolted tank is you really have to snug a bolt down tight
, holding a plate and several thousand gallons (biggest tank we have at wor
k is 420,000 gallons). If the glass coating can tolerate that, a homeowner
with an 8 inch crescent isn't even noise.
I still don't drain a tank because I'm wary of the valve not closing. But
if I started with a new tank I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent valve on
FWIW, the last time I bought a Sears water heater, I opened the box
and the water inlet or outlet was at a small angle. and the top of the
WH, the sheet metal, was dented. They must have put something heavy
My ex-gf said to take it back, but that would all be on me. Dragging
it up the stairs, having to drive 3 miles, wait around, 3 miles back.
(I put it on the back of my LeBaron convertible, so that requires
tying in on both going and coming.)
Anyhow, i hooked it up and it's been fine for 5 years now.
Of course it's Sears, which uses a sheet of vinyl and not actual
I pass a tank with plastic drain valve. After not having hot water over
night they just replaced one with Bradford White 50 Gal. one this
morning. For some reason most of new tanks are tall ones now. Not many
short ones around. Had to cut off copper pipes to accommodate new one.
The one I installed in the neighbour's house about 15 years ago was
Bradford White with the sears name. A few years earlier they were
GSW. It all depends who responds to the supply tenders, with what
feature list and cost.
take the anode out? Takes serious muscle. It doesn't distort the tank.
Obviously the fittings are designed to take a load.
down tight, holding a plate and several thousand gallons (biggest tank
we have at work is 420,000 gallons). If the glass coating can tolerate
that, a homeowner with an 8 inch crescent isn't even noise.
closing. But if I started with a new tank I wouldn't be afraid to put a
decent valve on it.
Last water heater I bought was 3-4 years ago, one of Sears' brands from
Orchard Supply Hardware, which was a subsidiary of Sears now closed.
There was a problem starting it up. Because it was brand new, I didn't
pay much attention and Sears sent a tech out. He order a new electrical
assy (can't even remember what that was) and then came back and
installed it all under warranty. Since then it has run perfectly. I
check it from time to time, flame color, etc. and not problems so far
knock on wood.
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