Draining Hot Water Heaters

I apologize if this was discussed before my time.

We have an 85 gallon Marathon water heater, which I really like. I've read different things about periodically training water heaters and I don't know what to believe.

I'm not sure if its necessary, just wondering what others think.

Reply to
SeaNymph
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Yes, at least once a year. Twice is better.

Reply to
Paintedcow

I've found that it's a good idea to drain the sediment once a year or so. However, doing so does not train the WH to do it by itself. You have to do it for the WH.

Why do you heat hot water? Most folks have cold water heaters.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

And is this something that I can do or is it best left to the professionala?

Reply to
SeaNymph

Damn it. Can't hot water heaters learn?

As for the hot water, it's heated at certain times and then stays hot. The thing doesn't heat water constantly.

Reply to
SeaNymph

How "hard" is your domestic water supply?

The "textbook" recommendations include:

- replacing the sacrificial anode (it "corrodes", bt design)

- draining the tank (mineral accumulations)

- "testing" the high temperature/pressure relief valve

But, almost all of these can find folks with associated horror stories.

It's not possible to replace the anode in ours with a "stock" anode (no clearance above the tank to withdraw and insert). [though I think someone makes a "hinged" anode for this reason]

If the drain valve breaks (some are plastic!) or refuses to reseal properly (drip, drip, drip), you're faced with replacing it. You may not be able to find a suitable replacement (many tanks are glass lined; metal into glass is a big FAIL)

Likewise, testing the TPR valve can leave you with a valve that no longer closes. In addition to depriving you of future hot water, you may also end up with *no* water (if there is not a shutoff on the intake and outtake of the water heater so you can isolate it from the COLD water supply!)

Bottom line: don't do any of these the day before you have house guests scheduled to arrive!

Reply to
Don Y

I all ways heat the hot water. Who wants the cold water to come out hot.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

We're on a well so all of our water is softened. No hard water here.

The water heater is heavily insulated.

Reply to
SeaNymph

I have always heard this and never done it. Unless there's something I don't know, which is very likely, the sediment would be in the bottom. If the valve is in the bottom, sediment would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank, the sediment would never drain out.

I did test the pressure relief valve every few months on a previous water heater as recommended, starting when it was a couple of years old. Within a couple of years it got so it wouldn't reseat completely and always dripped after that.

Latest water heater sits in the corner of the garage with a drain pan underneath that is plumbed outside, and the relieve vent plumbed to outside. I'm not touching it until it stops working or blows up.

Reply to
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney

I used to drain mine but it didn't seem to make any difference in how long they lasted. What I found works best is to buy the cheapest tank you can get, then turn the temperature down to about 125. At lower temperatures it seems that far less sediment precipitates out and the tank lasts much longer. The "six year" tanks typically last 10 years or more at the lower temperature. With all the time you saved over the years not bothering to drain them you have saved up enough time to spend the half day just replacing it once a decade.

Reply to
>>>Ashton Crusher

It is very complicated. AOn the side near the bottom is what looks like a water spicket. You cut off the breaker if electric powered or cut to the pilot light or off if gas. Cut off the water going to it. Then you hook up a water hose to it or some other way to get rid of the water and open the valve. On top is a relief valve that you want to open so air can get into the water heater. Sometimes the relef valve will not reseat and you have to replace it. Then fill the heater back up after cutting off the drain valve and apply the power or gas. You may want to turn on the hot water valve at a sink to help the air get out of the system.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message news:7eadnfXAiqZ2IF7LnZ2dnUU7-I have always heard this and never done it. Unless there's something I don't know, which is very likely, the sediment would be in the bottom. If the valve is in the bottom, sediment would flow out first. If the valve is 6-inch above the bottom like mine and unless there is a pipe inside taking water from the very bottom of the tank, the sediment would never drain out.

I have never drained a water heater either. Heard it is good for them,but never did . Last house I lived in for 35 years and had to replace the heater one time due to a leak. Bought this house about 10 years ago with an electric heater and never touched it either.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Water here is soft. Heater that was here when I bought the house lasted

30 years, without ever being drained.

The once or twice a year advice would be for hard water

Reply to
philo

Many HO do their own water heater drains. You can likely find instructions on the web. In my case, the WH drain points out the cabinet door, out to the ground. Once or so each year I open the valve, and let the water and sediment blow out to the ground.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Splendid! How did you train it periodically to heat?

As to draining. The drain valve is generally about two inches from the bottom of the tank. They often have garden hose thread. You may wish to run a hose from the WH to a drain. The valves some times stick closed, as few people drain them as needed.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

The 6 inches is on the OUTER SHELL of the heater. It's probably 1 to 2 inches above the bottom on the actual tank (inside that shell). Most of the crud will come out, but not all of it. If you drain the tank, then turn on the cold water while the drain valve is still open, more crud will come out.

If you live in an area where there is excessive lime (calcium) in the water, you may never get it all out, especially if you have not drained it in years.

Not only does this prolong the life of the heater, but it saves energy. A gas heater has the flame under the tank. If there is 6" of crud in the bottom of the tank, you're heating that crud, not the water. But soem of the heat will transfer thru the crud and eventually heat the water. But a lot of the heat is wasted and goes up the chimney.

I once saw a water heater that was half filled with lime. I'm not exaggerating either. After the heater was replaced, the guy took off the shell, then sawed the tank in half. A 5ft tall tank had over 2 feet of lime in it. It was an elec, heater. The bottom element never touched water and was all twisted and deformed (and electrically dead) from operating in that lime. They could not even take one shower anymore before the hot water ran out.

Reply to
Paintedcow

TIME? How much time does it take to connect a garden hose, run it to a floor drain, shut off the flame or electric, and the cold water valve. The draining itself can happen while you cook supper or watch a movie. Then you close that drain valve, remove the hose and turn back on the heating source and cold water.

10 minutes worth of time at most....

You probably spend at least 10 minutes daily brushing your teeth and shaving!

Reply to
Paintedcow

Since women like things HARD, does that mean they like HARD WATER?

Reply to
Paintedcow

I think "glass" is most likely "fiberglas." Can't imagine transporting a real glass tank without breaking it.

Reply to
TimR

OUr water is all ground sourced -- much "blended" from CAP. A home without a softener will have a crust around each faucet aerator in short order. It will be removed only by

*breaking* the hardened deposits (you can't "scrub it off").

Our last water heater lasted ~20+ years without being regularly drained. By the time it failed, you could hear a large "boulder" thumping around inside (impairs efficiency).

Reply to
Don Y

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