The local Harley boutique has that down pat. I went over for a very exotic
part -- a battery for a Sportster -- and they said they had to order it.
O'Reilly's had one for me the next day and $50 cheaper. But if you want $100
gloves and $800 jackets with the proper logo they've got you covered.
I've played the field and haven't had too many bad experiences except for a
Fiat Spyder, but Italian vehicles are really works of art not meant to be
I did have a Firebird with a new design V-6. The rear main seal would rotate
and when everything lined up just right it would spray oil over the exhaust
pipe. It didn't lose that much oil and it kept the mosquitos under control.
It did get old having people telling me my car was on fire. Then it would
rotate a little more and seal again. I never bothered to fix it and the car
was still going strong at 80,000 when I traded it in on a F150.
My preference is for straight 6's, Ford, Mopar, or GM, they all treated ne
Sounds like me, when I discovered S-K back in '72. Bought an S-K metric
(7mm-19mm) 3/8" drive socket set for $10!!
I recently looked up these two USA mfrs and, yes, they are still made
in US. They are also NOT cheap!! I have a metric Proto combo wrench
set and it's currently going for over $200!! S-K is a bit more sane,
the socket set I paid $10 for forty yrs ago, now only $60.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
S-K tools are excellent. I usta use my small socket set (above) on
air wrenches (impact) and never lost a one to breakage.
Also, Sears now "labels" *some* of their Craftsman wrench sets as
"Made in USA", but that may be all Chinese made, on US islands of Guam
or some other US protectorates that allow "USA" mislabeling.
I hadda Honda hatchback Si, same gen as a CRX. Loved that car.
Bought it with 100K miles on it and sold it with 250K miles on it and
its engine was still whisper quiet. BUT!.... it was assembled in USA!
Only the dogbones, and I think you can put it in gear to move the
engine. Only changed the plugs on mine once, so don't quite remember.
Think I could get at the back plugs of the 2.8 in my Celebrity without
disconnecting the dogbone. Needed to use a u-joint on my extension.
Should have disconnected the dogbone, but didn't know that then.
Got a 2003 Impala now with a 3.4, and expect it'll be the same as the
Never had any issues changing plugs on my RWD cars, but transverse GM
engines are packed in tight.
Yup - but that's not a small block V8. Common problem on front drive
transverse applications. That said, it IS possible to change the plugs
an a 3100 without unbolting the mount if you remove the coil oplacks
and have the right tools - you WILL lose some skin!!!
On Sunday, January 4, 2015 4:34:09 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
Snap-On is still USA made. Blue Point may or may not be depending on the t
SK is still USA
Proto I believe is mostly USA
Williams (now "Williams/Snap-On Industrial") varies. Have to check COO on
their web site.
not sure if any other tool lines are all USA made or are easy to verify.
I wish my local NAPA carried SK and Proto! SK seems to be mail order only
now after they lost a lot of dealers a few years back when they went under,
but the new Ideal-owned SK tools appear to be just as good as the old ones
For sockets today I'd probably buy SK
for combination wrenches the new WrightGrips seem to be just as good as Sna
p-On Flank Drive Plus for a lot less money, and those two are a cut above e
verything else if you ever see yourself in a spot where you need to use an
open end on something old and rusty. Otherwise I like my old SK SuperKrome
On Thursday, December 25, 2014 8:09:59 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wr
I think you nailed it.
I picked up a GearWrench 24" breaker bar from Advance a while back because
they had a deal where if you bought the 24" you got a shorter one free - an
d my main 1/2" drive breaker bar was an old 18" long Williams one, figured
the 24" would come in handy for those extra special jobs. Get you a good q
uality 3" or so extension and a 6 point deep socket to fit et voila.
Alternately, the heavy duty Ken-Tool 4-ways seem to be good, but I've migra
ted away from them as the socket ends seem to be bigger in OD than a 6 poin
t socket and modern cars seem to have the lugs sunk into holes in the wheel
Finally, what is the vehicle? Does it use those infernal stainless capped
lug nuts? I got a whole nother rant on those pieces of excrement. Long st
ory short, if you have them, I would replace with chromed steel ones toot s
weet, and if any of the caps "spin" report back and I'll walk you through "
peeling" them with a sacrificial screwdriver so you don't have to torch 'em
On Sunday, January 4, 2015 6:29:24 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Ah, OK so they're the open ended ones with the little threaded bits on them.
If there's a standard chromed steel "acorn" style lug nut that will fit, I would replace all with those (but for a different reason - open end ones when not covered may allow corrosion to form between the stud and nut)
Really, chromed steel acorn lug nuts IMHO are what should be used on just about every street driven vehicle...
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