nestork wrote, on Fri, 26 Dec 2014 03:24:24 +0100:
I think the OP would need to be crazy to use Teflon tape. Even the anti-seize may be a bit too much, but I use it as the sacrificial metal in the galvanic reaction that inevitably occurs with the metal-on-metal connection.
How long ago is this? I was servicing and installin g tires on alloy rims back i 1969, and it was well known already back then by anyone legitimately calling themselves a "tire guy"
The Land Rover has had an aluminum body since it's inception - and the aluminum corrodes away where it contacts steel. Even the lowly landrover figured out how to mitigate that problem long ago.
The body on my 1995 Pontiac TransSport was not only rust resistant, it was rust proof, being all plastic. The underbody and subframe, on the other hand, started out as steel and progressed through iron oxide to 80% nitrogen. I called it my "six seater corvette". Corvettes suffer the same fate. My '96 Ranger is virtually rust free at 323000km here in central ontario, where roads are heavily salted like in New York. It was rusproofed from new with "Rust-Chek" and retreated on a constant schedule since. Lots of vehicles stand up quite well here if properly maintained. Mazdas seem to rust faster than most
My last Toyota p-up went 18 years
You were lucky. Many of those places caused more rust than they prevented. That's why they are gone, plus most cars do have good protection from the factory. The aftermarket may also void the factory warranty for rust through
'Cause you'd be crazy to take one out in the snow. Plus fiberglass does not rust.
What do you think would likely go wrong?
Either tape or antiseize, or any other type of grease, lubricates the connection. Most torque recommendations specify dry or lubed, so you have to be sure to use the lower number or you will over torque the fastener.
I've always lubed nuts and bolts and never had one properly torqued that worked itself loose, even on vibrating engines. If Teflon would make a joint come loose, wouldn't plumbing joints all loosen and leak eventually?
70s and by tire guy I mean the high school drop out they hire at a tire store. There were plenty of stores that simply refused to deal with alloy rims. I guess you don't have lawyers up there.
plumbing joints all loosen and leak eventually?
Because they end up at a furnace or toilet that can't rotate like a lug.
- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
There was the one time years ago, a furnace rotated six times, and the gas line came off....
Some questions are so comical.
- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
I have never seen anyone recommed using the Teflon tape for anything but pipe joints. Especially as a lube or antisieze for bolts.
The plumbing joints do not usually move, especially in a circular motion to unscrew them.
We've got lawyers, but we also have shops that are willing to spend the money on equipment to handle the tricky stuff without harming it. We always had owners of alloy rims sign a release on them, but never damaged one. We also hired high school graduates as apprentices to operate the equipment.
See I told you ... different
There were a few so-called "rust proofing" processes that caused more rust than they prevented - like Ziebart and Rusty Jones. The oil/wax/grease type rustproofing WORKS. Crown, Rust-Chek, and Waxoil are worth applying. The 2002 Taurus was WaxOiled when new, and Crowned 2 years ago and is totally rust free. My old 1988 New Yorker was Wax-oiled when new and was virtually rust free when we sold it at age 18. We oiled it twice later, if I remember correctly. The Mystique and the LeBaron were not rustproofed - and they rotted away. The TransSport frame/unibody rusted seriously. I had the rust damage repaired and oiled it well and got another several years out of it before the engine went. The truck had over 375,000km on it - with
100,000km on the second engine.Those electric rust preventer units are a hoax. Friend's 06? Impala has had several thousand dollars of rust repairs done on it under warranty and their 07 Silverado is catching up quickly!!!. Mabee it's just the GMs - but I'll continue to have my vehicles treated with Crown or Rust-Chek, etc.
Nope, plumbing parts are all interconnected - to loosen one part you need to loosenthe one connected to it, and the one before that, and the one before that -----.
That said, I still cannot see using teflon tape on a straight thread - like a bolt. Anti-Sieze works. I've never had a properly torqued wheel nut come loose with anti-seize or without.I usually torque a lubed fastener to the lower end of spec. Over 45 years experience and NEVER seen teflon tape used or recommended for use on wheel nuts/studs or any other "fastener" by anyone who knows anything about automobiles or fasteners.
If it came off after 6 turns it was only partly tightened to start with!
Just Tires didn't require a "release" for alloy rims when my son worked there. Everybody knew about alloy rims. But his manager put a wheel with a carbon fibre rim on the Road Force balancer after my son dismounted it and rolled it over. Customer didn't tell him the rim was carbon fiber. It snapped at the hub when the rolling pin came down on it. Cost the shop about $2k to have a replacement shipped from Italy. So if you have carbon fiber rims, please mention it to the shop, so they can send you to the dealership. It'll save you time and the shop money.
I had a set of Crager SS mags that I had trouble getting guys to mount tires on without a release.
The Cragar SS was an AWFULL wheel. They sure looked good, but the cast alloy center was just crimped into the chromed steel rim. There was no weld. They were easy to damage demounting the tire. The one and
2 piece "torque thrusts" were all alloy, and the 2 piece ones were welded - much superior to the Cragar. Fenton, American Racing, Eagle Alloy, Ansen? and a few other manufacturers made them in natural sandcast, polished, and chrome versions. The Keystone K-Mag was also a 2 piece hybrid wheel (I had a set on my 74 Dart Sport and if I didn't want the car to be recognized I just popped the stock wheel disks on (with electrical tape on the "tangs" to prevent scratching the chrome). It still had a slightly wider than stock stance but didn't draw attention.
I ditched the 4-way lug wrench a long time ago and picked up a long 1/2" breaker bar with the exact 6-point socket to fit. Depending on how deep your lugs sit back in the wheel, you might need a short extension too. Since lugs are under a lot of torque, I bought a good quality Craftsman bar and socket. Yes, they're expensive, but a $30-40 investment is minimal for a vehicle. You don't want cheap tools that break when you're stuck on the side of a lonely road somewhere.
One bonus of a breaker bar and socket is they are light weight and are easy to store in your vehicle.
I have never needed a pipe on my breaker bar. Most times it is easy to loosen the lugs by hand. However, on some occasions the tire shops really over torque the lugs and the lugs are stuck after a couple years. I just angle the bar parallel to the ground and stand on the end of the bar as needed. There has never been a lug I couldn't get loose with this technique. Of course, no harm done if you have room to carry the pipe too.
Take care,
Anthony Watson
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