On Fri, 26 Dec 2014 16:32:56 -0500, Stormin Mormon
The body on my 1995 Pontiac TransSport was not only rust resistant,
it was rust proof, being all plastic. The underbody and subframe, on
the other hand, started out as steel and progressed through iron oxide
to 80% nitrogen. I called it my "six seater corvette". Corvettes
suffer the same fate.
My '96 Ranger is virtually rust free at 323000km here in central
ontario, where roads are heavily salted like in New York. It was
rusproofed from new with "Rust-Chek" and retreated on a constant
Lots of vehicles stand up quite well here if properly maintained.
Mazdas seem to rust faster than most
You were lucky. Many of those places caused more rust than they
prevented. That's why they are gone, plus most cars do have good
protection from the factory. The aftermarket may also void the factory
warranty for rust through
nestork wrote, on Fri, 26 Dec 2014 03:24:24 +0100:
I think the OP would need to be crazy to use Teflon tape.
Even the anti-seize may be a bit too much, but I use it
as the sacrificial metal in the galvanic reaction that
inevitably occurs with the metal-on-metal connection.
On Friday, December 26, 2014 5:59:01 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
What do you think would likely go wrong?
Either tape or antiseize, or any other type of grease, lubricates the connection. Most torque recommendations specify dry or lubed, so you have to be sure to use the lower number or you will over torque the fastener.
I've always lubed nuts and bolts and never had one properly torqued that worked itself loose, even on vibrating engines. If Teflon would make a joint come loose, wouldn't plumbing joints all loosen and leak eventually?
On Friday, December 26, 2014 9:35:30 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
How many turns on a toilet (I guess you'd have to lift it up and tip it ove
r, better wear boots) does it take to
*loosen a joint* enough to leak? If you've ever done any amount of plumbin
g, you know you don't have to unscrew a fitting all the way to have it leak
. You just have to loosen (or tighten) a tiny tiny bit past where it shoul
I don't put Teflon tape on a toilet, come to think of it.
There are lots of plumbing joints that are subject to high vibration, becau
se there's a recirculating pump or other motor shaking them constantly. Do
you avoid Teflon tape for those?
Shotgun choke tubes are commonly installed with teflon tape, because otherw
ise they tend to stick and can't be changed out. These are high temperatur
e AND high impact joints where shaking loose could be a VERY bad idea. Out
board motors have a number of joints commonly installed with tape. None of
these are tapered threads. So it does work, you just never heard of it be
I don't like tightening any fastener dry, whether tapered or straight. Thi
s is because I believe you can't get the torque accurately enough dry, you
have too much friction to be sure of the right amount of torque. I've alwa
ys lubed joints of any kind, but recently learned tape can be a lot less me
ssy while still lubricating and allowing easy removal.
Of course torque itself is meaningless; the purpose is to make sure your bo
lt is loaded to the correct amount of tension and never in shear. But we c
an only measure torque.
I have never seen anyone recommed using the Teflon tape for anything but
Especially as a lube or antisieze for bolts.
The plumbing joints do not usually move, especially in a circular motion to
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On Fri, 26 Dec 2014 21:29:54 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
We've got lawyers, but we also have shops that are willing to spend
the money on equipment to handle the tricky stuff without harming it.
We always had owners of alloy rims sign a release on them, but never
damaged one. We also hired high school graduates as apprentices to
operate the equipment.
There were a few so-called "rust proofing" processes that caused more
rust than they prevented - like Ziebart and Rusty Jones.
The oil/wax/grease type rustproofing WORKS. Crown, Rust-Chek, and
Waxoil are worth applying.
The 2002 Taurus was WaxOiled when new, and Crowned 2 years ago and is
totally rust free.
My old 1988 New Yorker was Wax-oiled when new and was virtually rust
free when we sold it at age 18. We oiled it twice later, if I remember
The Mystique and the LeBaron were not rustproofed - and they rotted
away. The TransSport frame/unibody rusted seriously. I had the rust
damage repaired and oiled it well and got another several years out of
it before the engine went. The truck had over 375,000km on it - with
100,000km on the second engine.
Those electric rust preventer units are a hoax. Friend's 06? Impala
has had several thousand dollars of rust repairs done on it under
warranty and their 07 Silverado is catching up quickly!!!. Mabee it's
just the GMs - but I'll continue to have my vehicles treated with
Crown or Rust-Chek, etc.
Nope, plumbing parts are all interconnected - to loosen one part you
need to loosenthe one connected to it, and the one before that, and
the one before that -----.
That said, I still cannot see using teflon tape on a straight thread -
like a bolt. Anti-Sieze works.
I've never had a properly torqued wheel nut come loose with anti-seize
or without.I usually torque a lubed fastener to the lower end of spec.
Over 45 years experience and NEVER seen teflon tape used or
recommended for use on wheel nuts/studs or any other "fastener" by
anyone who knows anything about automobiles or fasteners.
On Fri, 26 Dec 2014 21:54:29 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Just Tires didn't require a "release" for alloy rims when my son
worked there. Everybody knew about alloy rims.
But his manager put a wheel with a carbon fibre rim on the Road Force
balancer after my son dismounted it and rolled it over.
Customer didn't tell him the rim was carbon fiber. It snapped at the
hub when the rolling pin came down on it.
Cost the shop about $2k to have a replacement shipped from Italy.
So if you have carbon fiber rims, please mention it to the shop, so
they can send you to the dealership.
It'll save you time and the shop money.
On Sat, 27 Dec 2014 00:24:00 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
The Cragar SS was an AWFULL wheel. They sure looked good, but the
cast alloy center was just crimped into the chromed steel rim. There
was no weld. They were easy to damage demounting the tire. The one and
2 piece "torque thrusts" were all alloy, and the 2 piece ones were
welded - much superior to the Cragar. Fenton, American Racing, Eagle
Alloy, Ansen? and a few other manufacturers made them in natural
sandcast, polished, and chrome versions.
The Keystone K-Mag was also a 2 piece hybrid wheel (I had a set on my
74 Dart Sport and if I didn't want the car to be recognized I just
popped the stock wheel disks on (with electrical tape on the "tangs"
to prevent scratching the chrome). It still had a slightly wider than
stock stance but didn't draw attention.
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