Does anyone make a STURDY Tire Wrench

Stormy,

How many turns on a toilet (I guess you'd have to lift it up and tip it ove r, better wear boots) does it take to

*loosen a joint* enough to leak? If you've ever done any amount of plumbin g, you know you don't have to unscrew a fitting all the way to have it leak . You just have to loosen (or tighten) a tiny tiny bit past where it shoul d be

I don't put Teflon tape on a toilet, come to think of it.

There are lots of plumbing joints that are subject to high vibration, becau se there's a recirculating pump or other motor shaking them constantly. Do you avoid Teflon tape for those?

Shotgun choke tubes are commonly installed with teflon tape, because otherw ise they tend to stick and can't be changed out. These are high temperatur e AND high impact joints where shaking loose could be a VERY bad idea. Out board motors have a number of joints commonly installed with tape. None of these are tapered threads. So it does work, you just never heard of it be fore.

I don't like tightening any fastener dry, whether tapered or straight. Thi s is because I believe you can't get the torque accurately enough dry, you have too much friction to be sure of the right amount of torque. I've alwa ys lubed joints of any kind, but recently learned tape can be a lot less me ssy while still lubricating and allowing easy removal.

Of course torque itself is meaningless; the purpose is to make sure your bo lt is loaded to the correct amount of tension and never in shear. But we c an only measure torque.

Reply to
TimR
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Then there is always the "newfy impact wrench" Put the socket on the nut with the breaker bar pointed at the ground in the direction of motion required to undo the nut, bar end on the ground, and put the car in gear. Guaranteed to do one of 3 things - remove the nut, break the stud, or break the wrench.

I've done all 3 at one point or another. Have not managed to jack the car up over the breaker bar yet but I guess that would be a 4th possibility.

Reply to
clare

I'm not sure how to explain it, but somehow the flex of the 4way wrench is the cause of the NOT loosening the lugnuts. It appears that too much of the energy applied to the wrench goes into bending (flexing) of the metal in the wrench, and is not used on the nut itself.

As the OP in this thread, and after reading all the replies, I have just left my half inch breaker bar and socket (7/8") in my pickup truck. It's a mid 90's truck and does not have metric nuts. I'll buy another breaker bar when I find one on sale at Sears or another quality type. Because I want one in my garage tools, so I dont have to have to get it out of the truck everytime I work on stuff. But that 4way wrench is being retired.

The truck was bought from a private party, and did not come with the original wrench or a jack. I keep a small floor jack inside the cab (which are usually better anyhow).

Yesterday I took the truck to a tire shop and had the bad tire replaced. I then had the tire guy put anti-sieze on the lugs on that tire, and had him put it on ALL my tire lugnuts. He has a power wrench and did all of them in a couple minutes, rather than trying myself and fighting with doing it by hand myself. He charged me $5 extra to lube all the nuts, which was well worth it. While he was doing it, I asked him about the

4way wrenches and he agreed that 4way wrenches are not the best. Then I asked him if the reason is because of the flex on them, and he said that it's part of the problem, plus they often dont fit tight enough. He said I'm doing the right thing by carrying a breaker bar and socket.

As far as you saying you have never needed a pipe on a breaker bar, I have to say that I have needed a pipe more than not. But I drive older vehicles, and I'm elderly myself. From now on, everytime I buy a new vehicle, I am going to have him anti-sieze all the nuts as soon as I buy the vehicle. I'm tired of having a tire go flat and not being able to remove the lugnuts on the side of the road. That has happened far too many times over the years. I still recall one time having to walk about

5 miles to buy a piece of pipe, then walking back to the car. It took half a day to finally change that damn tire. Tires are made better now, then they were in the past, but they all go flat sooner or later. I know one guy who dont carry a spare tire. He said he never gets flats. I told him that he's a fool!
Reply to
Jerry.Tan

I tried that with my '51 Chevy, iirc, to break the bead on the tire. The car jacked up just fine. My memory is a little cloudy on the point but I think the owner's manuals back in the day illustrated the technique.

Anyway, I let the car down and went on to some other scheme to break the bead.

My current scheme with lug nuts is, if a tire shop mounts the tires, to drive directly home, take the nuts off with an impact wrench if necessary, and install them with a breaker bar. I have been known to use a torque wrench but my fingers are well calibrated by now.

Reply to
rbowman

I carry the usual donut in the car. I have another set of rims with mounted tires but a real tire won't fit in the spare well which pissed me off.

I also carry a plug kit and a small 12VDC pump. That's saved the day a couple of times. Summers, I'm usually on one of the bikes and you learn early if you can't fix a flat 20 miles from East Moosenuts you have a problem, so all the bikes have pumps and plug kits or tube patches. With the DR, I throw in a spare tube for good measure. Of course, that goes for the bikes with pedals too. With them, I carry a spare tube too.

Reply to
rbowman

I use the same method to remove crank pulley bolts. It is one of many "zam-fixes" I learned while in Central Africa (Zambia) teaching the automotive trade, which I later found werer also used by our resourcefull East Coast latecomers to confederation.

Reply to
clare

After 45 years twisting the wrench I still use the torque wrench. If I need to change a tire on the road I'll trust my "calibration" until I get home and recheck with the torque wrench. I'm usually pretty darn close - but I check anyway. Have not had a tire failure on the road that required a road-side change since about 1972? on my own vehicles. A few flat on the driveway, and a few getting low by the time I got home or to the garage - not counting removing the wheels on the 204 Peugeot several times on the trip from Livingstone to Mbereshi over the christmas/new-years holiday of 2003/2004 to straighten the rims after hitting some awfull potholes. Thankfully NOT tubeless tires!!!.

Reply to
clare

I have a cell phone and an auto club membership, as do my wife and both daughters, so spare or no spare or flat spare, I'm covered. I've used the auto club membership twice - bad transmission and bad universal joint - both while driving across Michigan in Ford Aerostars.

In the last 34 years I've not had a tire go flat on the road except for a bad valve stem in PEI, and even then I made it to a garage before it went right flat - thankfully - because the car was PACKED and getting to the spare would have been more work than changing it.

I've changed numerous wheels for others stuck on the side of the road.

Reply to
clare

The tire shop I go to has a big window where you can sit and watch them change and rotate the tires. They seem to use the torque tubes on the impact wrenches, but give them a final check with the manual torque wrench.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

That's my experience too. We've even stopped carrying a can of Fix-a-flat, which I kept in the trunk because there was no way my wife was strong enough to get lug nuts off anyway.

I think having to pass inspection annually means we buy tires more often!

Reply to
TimR

The problem is that guarantees they are AT LEAST torqued to that amount. It does not check that they are not overtorqued.

Reply to
TimR

Which is what I REQUIRED my techs to do, under threat of dismissal.

Reply to
clare

It sure does if they use the torque stick next down from spec, or they know how to use their impact - KNOWING they need to do the final torque by hand.

Reply to
clare

Up here we don't have anual inspections - but I won't let an "iffy" tire go back on at seasonal tire change - When I take the tires off for changeover, if they are "iffy" they come off the rims immediately so there is no temptation to get "a few more miles" out of them next season. Tires are cheap compared to the alternative - an accident or getting standed somewhere less than safe.

Reply to
clare

Skilled techs aren't the problem, here.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

If you are stupid enough to deal where they don't have skilled techs, you deserve all the hurtin' they lay on you.

Reply to
clare

I'll be in the market for a new set of shoes before the summer tires go back on. They're not down to the wear bars, but the bars seem very optimistic. I'm not impressed by the OEM Potenzas though so some shopping will be required.

Reply to
rbowman

The cheap 4-way wrenches I had were fairly bendy too, but the main issue was their length. Each arm was only 6-8" or so and didn't provide much leverage. A 16" breaker bar makes easy work of a lug the 4-way wouldn't budge.

Add my 230 pounds to the end of that 16" bar and a stubborn lug doesn't stand a chance! :)

An extra bar would be handy but I've never gotten around to getting one. I just grab the one out of the trunk when I need it. Generally, lug nuts are the only thing I need it for anyway.

My used cars never came with wrenches or jacks either. I got my standard equipment screw jacks at the salvage yards. It doesn't take much to lift my 1976 VW Rabbit anyway. That said, I did have a bearing fail on a screw jack years ago and the car came crashing down. Scary. Thankfully there was no harm to me or the vehicle, but it taught me never to trust those jacks for anything more than an emergency tire repair. I use my floor jack and jack stands when the car is in the garage.

I've been thinking about picking up a cordless impact wrench, mostly for the speed than anything. Taking snow tires on and off twice a year can take a while. More of a luxury than something I really need. :)

The only thing I need the extra leverage of a pipe for is removing the axle nuts when changing drivelines or wheel bearings.

However, if you live in an area where the roads are salted each winter, you may have more issues with corrosion than I do.

I always carry a full size spare, even though I have only had one flat in

30+ years. I heard a noise while driving and pulled over to find a key sticking out of the tire. I don't know how a key ended up on the road or how it managed to poke into my tire, but I had the spare on in less than 10 minutes and was on my way.

Unfortunately, the tires on my utility trailer seem to blow out every year or two. They just degrade over time, crack, and fail. So, I always carry a spare trailer tire, and replace the tires every few years.

I still drive a 1976 Rabbit and at 51 I'm no spring chicken either. :) Anthony Watson

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Reply to
HerHusband

Those little 12 volt compressors are ten bucks or so at Harbor Freight. I think, worth every penny. I have one in each vehicle.

One time a friend had a flat in the church parking lot. Another man and I got the spare out, which had no pressure. In spite of being a Ford Expedition with 17 inch rims, my little 12 volt compressor aired up the spare. Noisy little unit, and it did take several minutes.

True nerds will correct me, the spare did have

14.7 PSIA, but I really needed about 50 PSIA to keep the rim off the ground. Carry on, nothing to see here.

- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

14.7 PSIA prolly be about right for use on the moon.
Reply to
Jack Nerdman

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