On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 06:16:04 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor wrote Re Do you need a GFCI outlet?:
I wouldn't even consider placing an order without knowing *exactly* what the total charge was. Particularly since most companies seem to overcharge on shipping to make up for an artificially low item-price.
If I believe there is a chance of a GFI outlet corroding, I'll go with the breaker. Replacing a standard receptacle that has corroded is much cheaper. I was working for an electrical supply house in the early 1970's when GFI breakers first became widely available and this was during the CB radio craze. GFI breakers were mysteriously tripping for no apparent reason. It turned out to be RF from CB radios, especially those with illegal linear amplifiers attached. A lot of PA systems in places like churches were blasting out "BREAKER ONE NINE!", automobiles with early electronic fuel injection systems were stopping in their tracks when illegally boosted CB radios transmitted near them. I had so much fun back in those days.
TDD
If you use one GFI receptacle for that, make sure it's not a cheap one.
TDD
There are about 110,000 teachers in NJ (average salary ~$80,000*), and an untold number of administrators (avg salary ~$140,000). These are enough votes to sway almost any state-wide election.
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Do you mind telling us why you need twenty ampere pattern National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standard 5-20R duplex receptacles? That is what is costing you fifteen to twenty dollars apiece. Under the US National Electric Code (NEC), there is no outlet in a residence were you are required to have twenty ampere receptacles unless you have a single receptacle; not a more common duplex; as the only outlet on a twenty ampere circuit. If you use fifteen ampere NEMA pattern 5-15R duplex GFCI receptacles they are acceptable on any fifteen or twenty ampere circuit that is serving more than one load. If you are buying the twenty ampere receptacles because you think that they are required on kitchen circuits you are mistaken. Duplex fifteen ampere pattern 5-15R are perfectly acceptable on the kitchen counter top and dining room circuits under the US NEC.
-- Tom Horne
And in that you would be wrong. It is a basic part of any American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) members training to use a shunt tester to check the function of downstream GFCI protection.
-- Tom Horne
Why don't you use the cheaper 15A outlets? I seriously doubt you need many 20A GFCI's.
Just to make it clear, all GFCIs are rated at 20A, though some have contacts that are rated at 15A. IOW, they're just like a 15A outlet. They work fine in a 20A circuit (i.e. they will "pass thru" 20A).
BTW, the $.59 stuff should be avoided like the plague.
They are the same price at Home Depot. A 20a GFCI and a 15a GFCI were both around $12 last week when I bought a couple of them.
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