If I believe there is a chance of a GFI outlet corroding,
I'll go with the breaker. Replacing a standard receptacle
that has corroded is much cheaper. I was working for an
electrical supply house in the early 1970's when GFI breakers
first became widely available and this was during the CB
radio craze. GFI breakers were mysteriously tripping for no
apparent reason. It turned out to be RF from CB radios,
especially those with illegal linear amplifiers attached.
A lot of PA systems in places like churches were blasting
out "BREAKER ONE NINE!", automobiles with early electronic
fuel injection systems were stopping in their tracks when
illegally boosted CB radios transmitted near them. I had
so much fun back in those days.
On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 06:16:04 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
I wouldn't even consider placing an order without knowing *exactly*
what the total charge was. Particularly since most companies seem to
overcharge on shipping to make up for an artificially low item-price.
Just to make it clear, all GFCIs are rated at 20A, though some have
contacts that are rated at 15A. IOW, they're just like a 15A outlet.
They work fine in a 20A circuit (i.e. they will "pass thru" 20A).
BTW, the $.59 stuff should be avoided like the plague.
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