On Sun, 4 May 2014 12:24:25 -0700 (PDT), InTheSouth
When I got my new-used electric mower, I intended to sharpen the blade,
but was in a hurry to mow the lawn and I put the blade on without
sharpening or balancing.
There's no noticeable vibration, but 2 to 5 times each time I mow the
lawn, it leaves a strip uncut, tapered up to an inch or two wide. I'll
go over the strip again but usually it's still not cut. Sometimes a
third time gets it. Sometimes I just figure I'll get it next time.
The kind of grass is the same as the grass next to it that got cut the
OTOH, when it does cut, there are no ragged edges.
So what is going on?
I used a 6" bench grinder, and no blue either. I run a couple of passes
on one side, then flip it over and do the other side. I don't "dwell" a
long time, as it only takes maybe one second for a pass, taking a light
Doing it this way keeps the blade cool enough for me to touch it with my
My blades are time consuming to remove/replace so I've gone over to a
little attachment to my Dremel tool: turn the mower on it's side, run
the Dremel... and it's done.
But next time I am going to finish off with a light pass perpendicular
to the edge to give it that flat area that Clare mentioned.
On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 4:55:29 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
My adjustments work fine. But the blades are nicked up after years of use.
I'd like to grind them clean and square, but can't figure out how to do t
hat at home, and there aren't repair places equipped to work on them like t
here used to be. You need a jig that holds the grinder on a straight path
while you move the reel.
I guess I should ask the golf course where they get theirs done.
Saturday May 10, 2014
Ran the walk behind mower first time
of the year, today. Through high grass,
it barely does anything at all. maybe
Monday (give the motor a chance to
cool) I'll sharpen and balance the
On 5/6/2014 11:49 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Mine must not be very "hardened" because I simply run the gas out and
take the spark plug out. Then I take an old hand file and run over the
blade a bit. Seems to work just fine. I probably should balance it but
I've never used anything other than a hand file. I used to take the
blade off, but it just seemed like a waste of time.
The last thing you want is a hardened mower blade, as it would be too
brittle to be run safely at the speeds a mower blade is run at.
Instead, it is designed to deform when it strikes an unexpected item,
instead of sending chunks hither and yaw.
A good blade is made of the right steel and hardened right.
Not enough to be brittle, but to resist wear.
I don't use my mower on sand or hard stuff hard stuff, so don't really
care. I touched my old blade up on the grinder every couple years.
Last year I bought this.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
It mulches better, cutting the leavings so fine I don't see them
unless the grass is too long.
It's a heavy blade. Don't think I'll sharpen it on the grinder but I
might take a file to it next year. Or I might buy a new blade or
mower as mine is 10 years old and I just noticed it has a new
vibration, which means the blade is out of balance, or maybe the
engine is shot. Checked and it's not loose.
Maybe it's just old gas. Two years old, and the five gallon gas
container has had a paper towel stuck in the spout.
I'll get new gas for the next fill up.
On Monday, May 12, 2014 5:41:19 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
e blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. It'
s very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendations
That's not the point. I realize you can make it safe. If they recommend s
harpening it on the mower someone would not make sure it can't start and ac
cidentally start the engine and then try to hold them liable. So they tell
you to take the blade off first.
On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:35:41 PM UTC-4, jamesgang wrote:
the blade if the ignition is not grounded by an off switch of some sort. I
t's very uncommon but you know corporations have to make safe recommendatio
sharpening it on the mower someone would not make sure it can't start and
accidentally start the engine and then try to hold them liable. So they te
ll you to take the blade off first.
Maybe I'm missing something here, but it seems to me you
have pretty much the same risk of the mower accidently starting
while removing the blade. Just for the record, I've been taking off blades
without pulling off the ignition wire for 30 years and
never had anything happen. But then I'm not dumb enough
to turn the blade, which is what you'd have to do to get compression
and spark. And mowers have had ignition kill when you release
the handle for a couple decades now anyway, so there's that.
The reason for taking it off is so you can easily sharpen it and
have easy access. I use a hand=held grinder. That or a bench grinder
won't work with the blade on the mower. And I can't imagine screwing
around with a file, and even that IMO would be a lot easier with the
blade off, so you can get at it. How do you get a file to where it
needs to go, get the angle right, and not hit the sides of the mower
deck? Don't know what kind of mowers you all have, but that's how it
works around here.
I also use the nail, but just put in the vise that I use to hold the blade
while I sharpen it with a file.
Take out blade and put in nail, then see which side if any is lower and put
it back in the vise and file it a stroke or two and repeat.
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