Can someone explain to me what direct power vent is? I understand that
direct vent and is the vent that vents naturally, power vent has
blower, what "direct power vent" is? I am going to buy and install
A.O. smith vertex 100 direct power vent water heater both for DHW and
radiant heat. I can't figure out how to proper vent it. The manual
shows both direct vent code requirements and power vent code
requirements but not for direct power vent.
I will probably vent the heater with separate inlet and exhaust pipes
through the side of the wall. How far apart they need to be? How far
do they need to be from furnace exhaust vent also through the side of
the wall (rim joist)? Any clearance needed from basement bath exhaust
fan vent in the same side wall?
What the difference between power vent and direct power vent? The
water heater install manual shows direct vent and power vent and but
no direct power vent.
These may be terms specific to the manufacturer. "Power Vent" like ones
built by Fields controls, is a suction fan mounted on the exterior of the
building. It may be that what they're calling direct power vent, is a blower
built onto the unit. These typically use special vent pipe with sections
that lock together
Take your installation manual down to City Hall and ask the building
department folks what regulations apply. Many communities will not
want a permit pulled for a simple replacement, but if they fuss about
wanting to know who's going to do the work, simply tell them it hasn't
been decided yet and you just want to make sure it's done right by
whomever you choose. There are some really strong plumbing cartels in
some areas, so you may get some flack. Good luck.
How can you keep the heating system and your home supply seperated,
you cant mix the two or continualy enter new water into your heating
system or you will have a contaminated shower, and the oxygen in new
water will kill any heating systems metal fast. Heating systems are
closed systems, the Oxygen cooks out rapidly on a few long cycles, any
metal will be affected to Oxidise fast. Did you know the Vertex is
82-84 EF, not so overall efficent its not a rating AO openly publishes
or is easy to find, and I have the AO Cyclone. You better rethink your
approach fast. You vent it through the wall with PVC, intake and
exhaust, be sure you have the proper angles in horizontal and follow
instructions on length and elbows, but I think you need a pros help
since you cant figure the basics, How about that Manometer test.
Vertex is 82-84 % efficient? That does not make much sense. It is the only
100,000 BTU input water heater that I can put my hand into the exhaust and
only feel a little warmth, the rest has been absorbed by the water. If I try
that with my high efficiency furnace, I will burn my hand.
Hardly scientific testing is it, and its no different on a Condensing
heating unit, its cool also. Learn what the EF rating is, then get
confused, but remember you are comparing a Tank to a heating Boiler.
If you want a water heater with a 94 EF rating then its a Takagi TH1,
I believe, it is the most efficent way to heat water that I know of.
EF is not a rating tank manufacturers want you to know about in
comparisons or usualy openly publish right in front where you can find
it. www.energystar.gov lists all tanks by EF rating. Still, you dont
mix heating and potable water, it wont pass any code anywhere,
anytime. I dont know what you radiant system planned is, but besides
the danger of always present Oxygen there is Scale buildup from
constantly adding new water.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.