In the course of kitchen remodeling, when I pulled the range away from
the wall, there was an electrical box lying on the floor (unfastened),
with the wire from the service coming up through the floor going in,
and enclosed in a flexible conduit, the wires carrying power to the
stove. Yep, Cu-Al connectors in the box.
Well rather than the current setup, I'd like to use something more
standard; a wall socket for the range.
How about just mounting that box with the CuAl connectors to a joist
underneath the kitchen, then coming up to a socket with copper?
Have you priced large copper wire lately? There's nothing wrong with (8
gauge and larger) aluminum wire and cable. It was the small stuff that
caused problems in the 70's. Fasten the box to the wall or floor and
you'll feel better.
The required method is to have a receptacle behind the stove with a range
cord plugged into it. If the existing box is big enough, such as a 4"
square x 21/8" deep or a 411/16" square x 21/8" deep, then you can mount it
low and install a range receptacle with a square surface cover. The other
choice is to remove the cable feed from the existing box and bring it into a
surface mount range receptacle. Of course either method will require the
installation of a range cord on the stove. Depending on your feed wire the
receptacle and range cord can be 3 wire or 4 wire. The new range
receptacles are usually rated for copper and aluminum connections, but with
aluminum wire the use of Penetrox is a good practice. There is no reason to
remount the junction box underneath the kitchen. That would just be more
splices that could cause a problem down the road.
Aluminum cable and flexible conduit are not suitable for use as a portable
cord. When the range is pulled out for cleaning or servicing the aluminum
will bend each time as will the flex. Some ranges have access to the rear
by the removal of the bottom drawer or panel. That access satisfies the
requirement for a disconnect using a receptacle and cord.
Got a surface mount 3-prong plug marked Cu-Al and connected the Al wire
to it; used the anti-oxident compound, whose instructions say to
follow the advcie of the manufacturer of the connector, but they don't
Got a new tange cord. It had the cheesiest galvanized, pressed-steel
cord-strain relief going. Anyway, all works well.
Thank you all for the information.
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