Does anyone know if there is a pan made to fit under a typical HVAC
I have a condensate pump in the basement for the furnace and AC that
water outside. I'd like to put a pan that's maybe 16 x 8 or so under
the pump. I'd
then have the secondary drain (overflow) from the AC coil and the
furnace going into
the pan as well. The pan should have a fitting so I can hook up a
hose and go from
there to the french drain. That way if the pump fails or the primary
lines clog, the
water would go to the french drain instead of the basement floor.
I'd also put one
of the small battery water alarms in the pan.
I can find big ones made to go under entire furnaces for attics, etc,
small enough for just the condensate pump itself.
Actually, many condensate pump units have a normally closed contact
which opens if the pump fails to empty the tank. This is then wired
in series with the hot wire going to the thermostat. Everything
shuts down if the pump doesn't pump. My condensate pump has shut
down the furnace 2 times because the hose, going outside, froze. I
now have it going where it can't freeze.
If you happen to be away e.g. on vacation---what's your choice, a shut down
of the furnace or condensate on the floor? When my pump was wired I made
sure that a malfunction would not shut down the furnace. I'm gone for a
month in the winter and a furnace shutdown could be disastrous.
That's not the case with high efficiency condensing furnaces. A lot of
water comes out of the furnace during operation because so much heat is
extracted from the burning of the fuel. I prefer a good floor drain if
I can get it for an AC or high efficiency furnace. It's easy to address
the possibility of a frozen drain for a furnace with electric heat tape
on the vulnerable section of drain pipe. I've had to use it on lines
going to an outdoor wall mounted NG fired instant water heater.
On 5/9/2011 5:25 PM, hr(bob) firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Sam's club has the gray plastic bus-boy boxes that would be perfect for
this. I think a 2-pack is about 12 bucks. I keep 2 in the back of my van
to hold grocery bags, and the local airport uses them (and the non-skid
dogfood bowls) for the x-ray machines. Nothing like adaptive
repurposing. The gray plastic is also easy machinable, if you want to
add a drain line.
Dumb question- if you have a french drain (and presumably a sump pit it
leads to), why are you using a pump? Back in the stone age, we put the
sump pit 6 feet from the furnace and WH, and just ran the drain pipes
across the floor.
Yeah, if the sump pit was near the furnace, that would be my first
it's far across the basement. And there is no sump pump because my
basement has been dry. From what I understand, the code guys are
OK with it being routed to a sump pit, but not into a french drain
no sump pump. Plus, I'm not sure about running that water into the
french drain for two reasons:
1 - While most of it's going into the ground, it probably adds some to
the basement moisture.
2 - The condensate from the furnace is acidic and I wonder if it could
damage footings, etc over time.
I found an old aluminum cake pan that is the right size. I just have
figure out how to attach a barbed fitting for a hose. Probably just
epoxy it in? It's not super critical that it be 100% leak proof. As
as code goes, I could just end the secondary overflow drain right
on the basement floor.
In my case, the water would go from the overflow pan under the
furnace condesate pump to the french drain. In the case of a washer
you obviously either have to have one that has a drain that you
could route somewhere, or else it's usefullness is limited to
catching only what the pan can hold. That combined with a
battery powered water alarm could still give some reasonable
amount of protection, but not enough for burst hose.
Thanks for the link. They do have a good variety of plastic pans.
Right now I found an old aluminum bake pan that I think will work.
It's the perfect size. I just have to drill a hole and fit in a
hose fitting using some silicone sealer and it should work fine.
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