I used the Corky kit which basically provides a ring that is silicone
applied to the seat. It says to allow 15 min after resetting, but I let
it sit for 2 hours before refilling the tank. Same results, I can see
traces of food coloring working from the tank into the bowl. When I
shine a flashlight down the overflow tube, I don't see anything leaking
in from the side.
I guess I'll shut off the water and see what happens. Just for
clarification, by tank "leaking down" are you meaning the water level
dropping inside the tank versus not? Since the occasional running of
the commode is so infrequent, I guess I'd better carefully mark the
initial water level. Since the family needs the water tonight, I will
have to try this tomorrow.
There is, but I don't trust it and leave it alone. A few years back, I
had serious issues getting it to fully close off the supply line and it
wanted to start leaking, so I carefully opened it back up and left it
that way. Definitely don't want to have to start soldering the pipes
with a new valve!
I'll admit, I fail to exercise my various shut off
valves around the home. Likely to be a problem when
they are needed.
Rading your "no better than no valve at all" reminds
me of the old limerick about differnt sizes. How about
There was an old man from alt home repair
Whose valve was not turned, I declare
One was rotted and small
T'was no valve at all
The other won several prizes.
Just use your dye to keep it simple.
But if it's the valve you should see the water rise to the overflow
tube. The overflow tube shouldn't submerge.
There's also a possibility your overflow tube seal is leaking through
or the tube itself has a crack that allows water to leak down.
I have a toilet that runs like that (small tank-to-bowl leak). I've
tried that, after replacing the fill valve, flapper, and flapper seat
more than once. No effect on the leak & running (except when I made it
worse for awhile, flapper chain a little too short). The food coloring
test doesn't help (it shows in the bowl, but I already know it leaks).
It diffuses too thoroughly to show the location of the leak.
31 days until the winter celebration (Friday December 25, 2015 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).
With mine, I think the only thing left it can be is the flush valve. I
replaced it once already about 5 years ago. There was originally a
brass one in place and it was a bear to remove as the brass nut almost
seemed like it fused to the tank, but I managed to free the assembly.
Replacement was with Fluidmaster plastic. Now in my head I'm trying to
decide if I want to again go with Fluidmaster or opt for the brass as I
see brass is still available. The brass that had originally been in
there must have lasted 25 years.
Does the tank have over flow tube? Is the water level
below the top of the tube?
I'd choose brass over other metal, even if it
costs a bit more. The savings is over time, and
having a dependable toilet.
I just ordered the brass flush valve with ball and rods. Hopefully take
care of this leak.
The only question remaining is that I'm wondering if I can coat the
brass parts with something to keep them from seizing up either against
the valve itself or against the porcelain commode. When I had to remove
the prior brass parts, I actually had to dremel them away to get them
freed from the commode. Just trying to avoid that next time.
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