Chainsaw sharpening

[Steve B]

It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up" angle, usually around 10 degrees.

Harry K

Found my Oregon clamp on filer today. Clamped it on, and it seems to do the deed. Can't find my manual, though, but remember enough about it to (I think) sharpen them. Will look at that stamp tomorrow, though. The filer was still set at the old angles, so I must have taken them off of the manual.

Steve

[Van Chocstraw]

Sometimes it's unavoidable with embedded metal and trees that were dragged through the mud and gravel and have rocks embedded in the bark. If you have this problem a lot, get a second chain you use only for junk wood.

[Steve B]

I live in sand dunes. Anything transported here accumulates sand within twenty minutes. When sawing, I have to take a sledge and hit the log a few times, and that makes it only slightly better. Hence, I need a quick field app to keep my chains sharp.

Steve

[Harry K]

My guide is set at 35 and 10 which will do a good job on most chains. If you buy a new chain, the angles should be listed on the box.

Harry K

[Harry K]

Some people say they will 'ax' the bark off at the cut location - that is bit too anal for my blood.

Harry K

[jamesgangnc]

My 2c. I freehand with a dremel as well. Also freehand the cut depth with the dremel and a regular stone. Chain's not a precision instrument, as long as you're in the ballpark it works fine. I can do an 18" bar in about 5 minutes. I keep sharpening them over and over until I can't get the cut depth low enough. Then I save one or two for those jobs where you know you are going to ruin a chain, like down in a creek. Or in a hole.