Can I put a timer on a basic gas water heater?

I have a gas water heater that doesn't use electricity. It works by having a bare copper wire conduct temperature out of the water tank into the thermostat. The same way some air conditioner works. It also uses a manual pilot light (you have to light the pilot light manually if the gas was turned off and on).

Is it possible to add a timer to this kind of water heater?

Reply to
peter
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Yep.

I did it once and it cost (at that time) more money than you could have possible saved over the life of the tank.

Reply to
HeatMan

That is NOT a bare copper wire, it is a capillary tube that conducts a liquid that is heated in the pilot light and uses the pressure to operate the valve.

Reply to
EXT

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 16:22:23 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "HeatMan" quickly quoth:

Nowadays you could do it with your computer and some X-10 gear. Run a relay from the X-10 appliance module to interrupt the power-on line from the tstat. Alternatively, you could use a standard lamp timer with a relay for the same purpose. Piece of cake, but you're right, it might not save a lot of money.

(What's your reason for doing this, Peter?)

Reply to
Larry Jaques

If you want to do this, an appliance module is not the best choice. Use a "universal module" which can be set to act as just a relay. No external relay needed. Note that this module can be a power source as well. Be sure to read the instructions.

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

Apparently you all don't read very well. The OP's question was regarding a water heater, not a furnace / boiler, and worse yet it was a non electric gas fired unit that used a capillary tube type thermostat mechanism.

The only way to put a timer on this unit is basically to replace the entire thermostat and gas valve unit with electrically controlled ones i.e. buy a new water heater of the appropriate type.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

How do you do it on a unit that has no electricity going to it? I'd like to see the wiring diagram.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:12:51 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Mark Lloyd quickly quoth:

Excellent. Thanks for the tip. I'll look into those.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

It could be either a tube for pressure operation or the outer conductor of a coaxial wire pair. The wires are used for thermocouple type sensors and electromagnet operation of the pilot section of the valve. Both types were common at one time.

Don Young

Reply to
Don Young

A "hack" method would be to get a heavy duty RC servo, couple that to the thermostat such that when energized the servo would spin the thermostat knob to pilot light only, then spin the knob back to the appropriate heat setting when desired.

Obviously one would need a way to energize the servo, but that should be a simple task. (via the parallel port of a PC comes to mind) AFA energy savings, (if that is your intent) it may be minimal. A well insulated hater heater in a conditioned space (basement) does not lose much heat over a 24 hour period. Any heat that is lost helps maintain temp in the area.

Anyway good luck with whatever you want to do.

Reply to
TomCase

Do a search for "Qwaterback" made by Paragon. As a previous poster mentioned, it is a servo type thing that mounts to the thermostat, that turns it up/down in response to the timer. I picked one up (new in the box) at a yard sale some time back, and gave it to a friend since my w/h is electric. For some reason, the instructions specifically say not to use it on a propane unit, which is what he has, so he did not use it. Next time I talk to him, I'll ask if he still has it. Larry

Reply to
lp13-30

Hi, What does it suppose to accomplish?

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Electrically-operated valve to the main gas supply should do it.

Reply to
HeyBub

But then you'd need an electrically activated pilot light - additional expense.

Reply to
Grandpa

probably easier to add more insulation since timer only effects standby loses.

minize standby loses by superinsulating

Reply to
hallerb

"Gas water heater timers".... boy, those go back a *ways*.

These were availaible from at least two different manufacturers, AMF used to make such a device called a "QWATERBACK" - I remembered the name (took a couple of days) - and GOOGLE found one still in the box, on eBay, if anyone is wondering what they looked like:

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I have no idea how - or if - this device was effective or safe.

Or if it would be considered an acceptable modification by your WH's manufacturer.

Or by your local building department.

Or your insurance company.

My guess would be that the answer is to all three is no , and if I found one of these during an inspection I'd recommend it's disconnection unless all three approvals could be confirmed - and even then, how would you find a "qualified person" to perform an inspection or repair of such an installation?

Michael Thomas Paragon Home Inspection, LLC Chicago, IL mdtATparagoninspectsDOTcom

847-475-5668
Reply to
MDT at Paragon Home Inspection

And how does the timer relight the pilot after reconnecting the gas?

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

my old water heater developed a leak inside that put out the pilot. i truned off the gas and water, near 24 hours later i turned on the water long enough for a shower, the water was nice and hot.

a couple hours later in installed the new tank.

turning the burner off isnt going to save much at all

Reply to
hallerb

Wrong.

Good thought, though.

The Flame at the tip makes two different metals generate a very small amount of electricity, in the milli-volt range. That electrical current is enough to hold the pilot solenoid open. It won't open the pilot solenoid, that's why you have to push the button when lighting the pilot.

Reply to
HeatMan

I beleive the WH he's talking about is the standard tank-type unit that uses no electricity to operate.

Reply to
HeatMan

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