camera copy stand

I want to make a camera platform(out of wood) so that its height can be adjusted on a 1" thick dowel-sort of home made camera copy stand.I used oak but it too hard to hold onto the dowel without slipping.

Reply to
Freddy Correa
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Make a giant clothespin

Reply to
hrhofmann

what kind of wood do you recomend?

Reply to
Freddy Correa

Freddy Correa wrote in news:k4o787$bu5$1 @speranza.aioe.org:

Balsa.

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Reply to
Sjouke Burry

Martha Stewart would say, wrap the dowel with hockey tape. (Tennis racket grip tape or whatever)

The sporting goods store is your friend here.

Reply to
gfretwell

I've read this 6 times and I still haven't got clue 1 about what the hell you're talking about.

Reply to
Smitty Two

Would this work:

'RULAND MANUFACTURING Quick Clamp Shaft Collar, 1In Bore - Shaft Collars

- 5DFH5|QCL-16-A - Grainger Industrial Supply'

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It's an anodized aluminum collar with a 1 inch ID. It uses a cam lock for quick locking and unlocking. It's about $36.

Reply to
nestork

Drill a series of holes in the 1" dowel for a smaller dowel (say 1/4" or so) that would rest on the stand's top plate. No holding necessary.

Now how you get a camera attached to the top of a 1" dowel is an excuse for another off the wall post.

John

Reply to
John

I think he just wanted to share his experience with us.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

check craiglist , garage sales etc for camera tripod.

easier than making it, folds into aa tiny space easy to transport and looks profesional........

Reply to
bob haller

Don't use a wooden dowel. Get a 1" plumbing pipe and you'll find plenty of options for friction clamps that will grab the pipe without slipping. You can mount the bottom of the pipe to the wooden base of the copy stand using a threaded mount with a flange that has a bunch of holes in the base. You'd screw the flange to the base of the stand with wood screws.

I'd use a metal pipe instead of PVC because the friction clamps are much more likely to damage a PVC pipe than one made from brass or galvanized steel. Copper pipes might be too soft.

Depending on the weight of the camera, you might be surprised how heavy and wide the stand might need to be to avoid it either shaking or falling over when the camera is near the top end of the pipe. You may want to C-clamp the base of the copy stand to the sturdy table you'll need to put it on.

Reply to
Peter

Freddy,

Ok, here's what I get. You have a table (with lights?). You have a 1" dowel sticking up from this table. You want to slide a piece of oak on this dowel. The piece of oak will have a support for a camera. 1 inch dowel sounds rather small to me but try it and use bigger if necessary. Glue (and maybe nail) a collar to the underside of the oak platform. The dowel will pass through the collar and the platform, a tight but not binding fit. Drill and tap a hole through the collar and get a winged set screw.

Dave M.

Reply to
David L. Martel

Thanks guys for all your replies, I have tripods but a photocopy stand is better,I have lots copying to do(digitize) of photo,poster,slide and negative film . I'm using my buddy's $2,000 Nikon camera, I don't want to drop it.A decent photocopy stand costs about 200 from B&H, I got pipe,dowels and clamps time to use your ideas,thanks again.

Reply to
Freddy Correa

I bought one of the cheap ones from amazon about 10 years ago, and for my rare, occasional use it's still working just fine. Checking on Craigstlist does indeed show several used models, starting at $10.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Copying documents? Letter size? How much height adjustment do you need? With a $2K camera, the focus adjustment should just about do it. Can you put the post of your tri-pod upside down? Rather than adjust height of camera, why not make the document platform adjustable with a threaded rod or table top tripod?

Reply to
Norminn

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It's not oak but it's cheap

Reply to
PV

Not bad, really. I like his solution for the slowness of adjusting with nuts on a threaded rod- "Early on I supported the camera frame with "twisting nuts". These were over size nuts with the top filed to be at an angle (ie just big enough to slide up and down without turning.) . When a load is resting on the nut it twists against the thread and locks. To adjust you just twist the nut back to slide it up an down. In the twist position you can still turn the nut a little for fine adjustments. For example on 5/16" rods use a 3/8" nut (18 TPI and 16 TPI but it doesn't seem to matter). " [his diagram illustrates it well]

It seems like I've seen them already made-- anyone have a name for them?

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

PV's link shows a decent one-- I'd also poke around estate sales for darkroom equipment-- I picked up the vertical hardware for $5 a decade or so ago-- I *still* haven't gotten around to making it into a copy stand.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I haven't read all the replies so someone may have already said this, but for photo prints up to say 11X17, a $100 flatbed scanner will give you better results than the $2000 camera (though not as fast if you have really high volume).

Unless he has a parallax-corrected lens for copying documents you will get some distortion...and probably lower resolution if you care. Getting even lighting without reflections is also an adventure that the scanner won't take you on.

If you're just taking pictures for inventory purposes or of things to sell on ebay, you probably don't care about the above.

A good, slide/negative scanner or something for large posters is more expensive.

Reply to
Larry Fishel

No, focus is for focus. Unless you have a zoom lens, distance is what must be changed to fill the frame the way he wants.

I've done that.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

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