Going to try to explain the cuts. Looked on Google, obviously I'm not using the correct search terms.
Here's what I have. A couple of cuts each being 30 degrees. I have a sliding compound miter box. The trim is 4.5" wide, but they need cut long ways. Like I have to set the end of trim in long ways instead of cross ways.
Anyone know of a better way to cut these pieces? They're each about 10' long, so I could use some pointers how not to screw them up.
Thanks
I'm not exactingly sure of what you're describing. I'm thinking you need to make a 60 degree cut to make which may require setting up some sort of temporary support and/or fence.
First, make test cuts on some scrap so you don't screw up the good stuff.
Second, the cut may end up being 59-1/2 degrees or something other than 60 degrees because nothing in the house is exactly what it should be. Another reason for using scrap.
Third, once you're sure of the angle, cut it and install it.
I need set end grain into the saw, not cross cut it. It will be a loooong cut.
Four cuts. It's cherry trim, don't believe a jig saw would provide the finish appearance needed. I'm replacing trim, which sits on top of stringers and meets other trim work. Someone had made the cuts b/4 out of oak, just don't know how they went about it.
Taper jig on a table saw would do it.
Sounds like you need a table saw and possibly a fixture to hold it safely. If you have a photo or sketch it would be a big help to understand what you need.
sounded like what the OP wanted to do is a rip. use table saw.
If one part of the wood is waste, use a plane.
Larry, it sounds like you may not have every tool that is out there. Be aware that no saw is capable of these cuts without some jig or aid added to them. For a one time job you could use a hand saw or a Skil type saw to cut the boards close and final fit with a plane, belt sander, file, or sanding block. The cuts are probably longer than your miter saw can do which is why several are suggesting a table saw, but this would require making some type of jig or free handing (a common technique, but NOT recommended for a DIY guy).
If your miter saw looks like it will make the cut, you can cut a scrap piece at 30*, fasten it to your miter saw table, and use it as the fence for your piece. and make the cut with the saw set at 90*. Make these cuts with scrap to test the fit of the angles and work out the safety issues.
A circular saw with a guide rail is probably about the safest (outside a table saw). I'd use my track saw, but...
Bingo, got em cut. A bit on the scary side, miter barely made it. Used a coping saw for the 1/8" it couldn't reach.
To get it straight against the fence took some time, clamping in place was a bit tricky, couldn't clamp on the saw. All in all, cuts came out perfect, after using scrap for test purposes.
Great. A photo of the final pieces would help everyone here understand what you were trying to explain.
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