Cable Wiring

May 26, 2018 Last reply: 5 years ago 34 Replies

We're talking about non-high-voltage wiring that you get from the "Cable" company. I recently acquired a service from Optimum at 200 Mips for internet only to replace DSL from Verizon. The phone is still from Verizon and TV is supplied via a broadcast antenna on the roof. No changes for those.



The wired Optimum cable works well. Blazingly fast in comparison to DSL but the WiFi component (laptop and Smart TV and another PC on another floor) is only comparable to DSL. Maybe slightly better for the other PC and the laptop. That wouldn't be a real problem but the Smart TV is. The real reason for the change is the Smart TV so that the wife can watch her garbage at Netflix. DSL is fine for (for example) posting to this NG.



Is it a problem with the supplied router? Maybe an inherent problem with WiFi? Maybe I can hard-wire it to the router? All these questions open up a bunch of others: What cable?; how long is permissible? CAT5e, CAT7? Advantages? Disadvantages? Which tool to add connector(s)? Where to buy? HD? Lowes?



I really need a book. Something like "DIY cable wiring/installation" but I don't see anything but maybe I'm looking for the wrong title or in the wrong place. Maybe there's a comprehensive websiite?



YouTube is NOT the answer. People who post there are incompetent in both the video production and content. Amateur p*rn is better and that's really scraping the bottom of the barrel.



In terms of books on DIY I think the old fashioned Goodheart-Wilcox series is excellent but out-of-date now. I think they were texts for "shop" in high school.



Any suggestions as to good information sources?



You can buy a cat5 cable with the ends installed. You just need a 7/8 inch wood bit to make a hole through the floor. It cost more, but you don't have to worry about it not being pinned correctly. It cost less than the crimp tool. If you run two cables I would use a 1 inch wood bit. Some plastic wire mold could help hide the cables if you have to run the cable up a wall.

I need better internet in my basement because work forces me to work from home half time. I have spotty wifi at one end but really need to work at the other.

So, the quick and dirty way is to buy a premade "patch cord" from the big box, go out a window on the ground floor where my cable router is, and drill a hole in the concrete block wall to get it in the basement. The local stores have half inch masonry bits - can I get the connector through a half inch hole? And why does a premade CAT 6 patch cable cost less than bulk cable in 5e or 6, even without connectors? I'll do that if I have to.

But I'd rather do it right, which is to go up into the attic and back down in the basement. How in the heck do I fish a wire into the basement? This is not obvious. But I know some of you do it routinely.

Before all that, how about one of the wifi range extender/repeater widgets that you might be able to put somewhere in between? Could save a lot of work.

Don't know if the OP's work requires maximum broadband speed to get his work done. At least in my experience, both my wifi extender and my powerline extender each provide about 40% of the throughput speed to the same location (about 40' from my modem/router) compared to the connection I can get by using a 50' ethernet cable.

If the OP needs an ethernet connection, but can get by at a lower bandwidth than he would have by running an ethernet cable, he may want to try a powerline extender instead of a wifi extender. However, it should be returnable because powerline extenders are fussy about both members of the pair often needing to be on the same side of the 240V ->

120V split to connect with each other, and it may or may not work depending on how the AC receptacles he would be using are wired at his breaker box. Both the wifi extender and the powerline adapter are easily adjusted to provide high level encryption, which he probably needs for the protection of his work.

A standard 8 pin "RJ-45" Ethernet connector is slightly smaller than

1/2" wide.

Technically 11.68 mm which = 0.459 inch

Yup, first thing I tried. It seems to work, it increased signal strength from none to a little bit, but not enough to connect. And work is on a VPN, unless the signal is strong it keeps dropping me.

The extender I bought can be an access point if I can hard wire it. My house is 30 x 60 feet, so a 100 foot patch cord is more than enough to go across a room, out a window, and in through a basement wall and to the other end. If that's the best way I can do it, just have to buy a masonry bit. Seems like there should be some way to fish into the basement though.

Is there a way to have two wired points from one cable, or do I run two if I want wired access at both ends of the basement?

Yeah, I measured one of my own at that, but the one in the patch cable at Home Depot looks bigger.

Then it may not be a standard 8p8c 10Base-T male plug. Can you post a link to the H-D cable you looked at ?

Seems like there should be some way to fish into the basement though.

Would it be easier to drill into the siding into a joist space ?

Either 2 cables; or one feeding a hub/switch with 2 outputs.

Something like this:

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I actually bought a 100' patch cable from Hdepot about 2 months ago. If you give me a bit of time, I'll go measure it.

I dind't need 100' and I sort of planned to cut off what I needed and put my own end on. I was going to do that not to have extra cable, but it would also make the diameter less -- though I would just go with . , but I'll admit I've had a hard time doing as good a job as they do at the factory. They still work but the cheap F-connectors could be ripped off if one pulled, and not even very hard.

The better F-connectors haven't worked much better for me.

First I bought the crimpers that look like a simple pair of pliers with

2 sizes of hexagonal holes.

Later, iirc, I found in the trash** a professional pair of crimpers, that have more leverage. But maybe I haven't had use for them.

**At an office park, driving in the big parking area between two buildings, I saw a tool box sticking out of a trash barrel. Lots of little things inside but iirc a few tools too, including this fancy crimper. Also about 100 F-F coaxial conntors and I lots of other things. I can't remember if I kept the tool box itself. I think so. Used it for plumbing stuff. .

Try a different location to be sure it is receiving a good signal. It should probably be halfway or so.

Yes, from flat side to flat side it's about 7/16" and from corner to corner it's a little more** but it's still under 1/2".

I think it will fit to begin with but can't one general run a masonry drill in and out and get the hole a little bigger?

I think this is what I got:

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paid cash so I'm not positive, but I think that's the only one they keep in stock in each store.

I think it looks bigger because the hex nut is longer than they used to be. I think the hex nut is the same size for just about all cables.

**How much more should be the same for every hexagon.

Oops, we're talking about Ethernet. Never mind.

Temporarily you can just run it down the steps to wherever it goes.

As to later, since you suggest the attic, that's what I did for most wires. There is a "stack" that has the heating ducts for the second floor. How many floors is your house? Mine is 2 stories plus basement and unfinishable attic. The floor of the 2nd floor covered the stack, and to run burglar alarm and 110V AC wires to the attic, I had to lie on the floor with a 6' drill bit and a 12" extension and drill hole(s?) in that piece of plywood. Then I pulled things back and forth until everything was in.

But I didn't think of leaving an unused line to pull later things with. Big mistake. Would have been easy. Now everything I pulled is connected at both ends and it would be a pain to use those lines.

The real way this is done in a commercial environment is you run the CAT 5/6 cable and terminate it in keystone connectors in a shallow handy box with a plate on it. No special crimpers and the hole can be

1/4" or so. Then you can use premade patch cables for the connection to the machines. You have about 100 meters of total cable you can run so you take the path of least resistance not necessarily the shortest one. Getting an RJ45 through a half inch hole probably is not going to work for you. If I really need to do it I punch a 9/16 or 5/8 but I usually do it right and terminate in keystones.

If your router is on the ground floor and you're headed for the basement, why not drill a hole in the floor above the right spot in the basement.

If there's carpet, it will close in around the wire and you don't need any kind of plate. Even if there is no carpet.

I've done that a couple** times and it works well. Though it's easy to miss a closet or a thick wall, or a setback or lots of things and misjudge where the hole will come out. I spend time checking and recheckeing and measureing and rechecking so I didn't make a blunder.

**Four times if you count the two holes I drilled in the second floor above the overhang I have, so the exit was outside, one of those times to bring in the fiberoptic to the second floor. And two other times with co-ax starting in a corner of the bedroom closet, coming out just at the end of bookshelves in the living room, and continuing to the basement, coming out in the corner. From there to a tv there, and also above the ceiling (snaking that was difficult) to the laundry room/shop (where I had a tv) and there up through the bottom plate of the kitchen wall to a tv there. (I guess that one was drilled from above, to be sure I knew where the kitchen wall was. )

You can drill up from the basement too, if you figure out where to drill.

Or you can just go across the floor and down the steps.

< and drill a hole in the concrete block wall to get it in the basement. The local stores have half inch masonry bits - can I get the connector through a half inch hole? And why does a premade CAT 6 patch cable cost less than bulk cable in 5e or 6, even without connectors? I'll do that if I have to.

When putting a cable through a wall, I'd rather drill a smaller hole and get the cable through, then install a connector.

Just buy a "hub" or "switch" (which is NOT a manual selector) or run a wire upstairs to just above where you need the wifi downstairs and plug in a simple wifi router and set it up as a "hotspot" to provide a strong wifi signal to the basement. Involves plugging the cable into one of the LAN plugs not the WAN plug. An old router can also be used as the previously mentioned "hub" or "switch"

Might be Cat6? (sheilded plug)?

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