I would like to locate the ground rod to my home.
The panel in the house is on the carport in the laundry room.
The carport is poured concrete and the panel is located on the inside
When I open the panel, I can see a single no 6 bonded to the panel.
The number six goes out the panel at the top and over head and back
down the outside wall to the front of the house. This is where I
assume a ground rod should be.
I took shovel and have dug down 6 bricks deep and have hit the base. I
seems like I have hit tightly compacted sand, but still no attachment
for a ground rod. I would have expected the ground rod to have been
driven in the ground and the wire attached to it a little below the
surface. This doesn't seem to be the case.
My next thought is to open the sheet rock wall and see if the ground
rod is attached inside the wall.
Because my dirt finishing is better than my sheet rock finishing, I
would like to find out from the pros where is the most likely place to
expose the ground rod.
Is this location at the front of the house approx where the
city water service line would be?
Maybe it's buried/attached to the water line.
Why else would they run overhead great distance
rather than planting a gnd rod at the panel site?
Dr Ufer invented the Concrete Encased Electrode system in WWII. It has
been an acceptible grounding electrode in the NEC for decades,
particularly if you don't have a metalic water system. The other
thought is they could have used the well casing if it was metal.
I don't think so. It is in the laundry room, but the water hook up is
not close to where it is going down the wall. BTW there was no county
water at the time, and the well is on the other side of the house.
This picture is what I can see
The entire area is poured slab for the carport. There is a storage
area and the laundry room.
The panel is in the laundry room. The water hookup for the washer is
in yellow. I can see from the attic that the ground goes overhead
into the outside wall. The chance that it is connected to the water
pipe is slim.
I assume anything is possible, but it seems unlikely. I think if I
cut a hole in the sheet rock that I would see that the ground is in
that wall and grounded in the front of the house.
I have dug down in front of the house 6 bricks deep and no sigh of a
ground wire. I have hit compacted sand.
On Sep 8, 4:15 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Still not sure why you want/need to find the ground rod (or whatever
metallic object is used as the ground) itself!
On the off-chance that you feel the ground is not doing its job?
In most North American installations (Multi Grounded Neutral,
principle) the neutral wire serving your house will also be grounded
back at the distribution step down transformer, and grounded again
(and only) your neutral to ground at your incoming service panel.l
So if you want to test it? There was a gadget called a ground megger.
I haven't used one for about 40 years.
So there is probaly a modern solid sate equivalent or 'Ground Tester'?
The megger method involved setting out two temporary ground pins and
connecting leads to them and the ground conductor.
You can then measure usually in the low ohms range the resistance path
of the grounding system. Still wondering why you need to find the
ground rod or whatever? To make it meet code? Something floating and
getting a tingle of voltage off it?
How about driving a rod where your existing ground wire is going
into the soil? Use a Kearney connector to bond the rod to your
existing ground wire. If it is headed to your water service,
great, if it is tied to another ground rod, great. This way you
don't have any chance of a change of ground potential. Anything
that was grounded on the original installation is still grounded.
To save your appliances in the next storm, contact your local
utility and ask about a Watt Stopper. Improving your ground will
not hurt anything. It will also probably not improve what you
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
The quality of your Grounding Electrode System may not be the culprit
here. If all of your wire carried utilities are not bonded to the same
Grounding Electrode System the differences in potential between the
separate utilities equalizes through the commonly connected devices such
as Modems, fax machines, computers, answering machines, and so fourth.
The first task is to assure that all of the Grounding Electrode
Conductors for the different systems terminate to the same Grounding
Electrode System. If separate Grounding systems exist then you must
bond them all together into a single system. Meaning no offense I must
warn you that the knowledge and skills to perform equi-potential bonding
is beyond the skill set of most do it yourself folks.
Tom Horne, speaking only for himself.
Yes, I have read your helpful suggestions in the past. This is one of
the reasons I am trying to locate the point my panel is grounded.
I have not been able to find a place where the copper pipe in the
basement has been grounded. This is where the CATV and phone are
bonded. As near as I can tell, the copper doesn't even come in
contact with earth.
It is true that it might not be the culprit, but for now, it is the
only remedy I have.
I think I have dug as far as a shovel will go and no sign of the
ground rod. I was hoping someone familiar with building footing
construction might have an explanation of where I am with the shovel.
If the house is a rebar type grounding system, then it is possible
that the water pipe has been grounded at the point the copper pipe
enters the laundry, but without cutting holes in sheet rock I can't
verify this. (although if this were true, I would expect the ground
wire coming out of the panel to head toward the piping)
I would rather just run another one than to start tearing out walls
looking for the existing one.
I do have an alternative route for fishing an interior wall, if I have
to, but it really would be the best place if I could just attach
another ground clamp to the existing ground rod.
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 01:33:51 -0400, Thomas Horne
You might be right, but grounding won't hurt either.
I now have the commputer equipment plugged in to a UPS, but I don't
think the water pipe in the basement is grounded properly. This means
that the CATV and phone might not be grounded properly.
How about taking a piece of bare #6 or larger, bond at the same
point that you see the phone and CATV being bonded and run to the
point that you see your existing panel ground and bond to the wire
or to the grounding lug in the panel.
Measure the ohms of resistance on the ground. Here the "rule of
thumb" is just drive two rods without measuring as one will seldom
if ever pass. 2 often won't pass, but the code says to drive 2 if
the first one doesn't pass.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
If every wire in each incoming utility cable is not somehow
connected short to the same earthing electrode, then household
electronics damage can result. For example, a surge protector inside
your telephone NID; where is its earth ground connection? Where does
the TV cable make its short connection to earth? Even code now wants
all those utilities connected to same earthing electrode.
Sound like you will be supplementing a questionable ground with
another #6 AWG and electrodes. This new connection wire must not go
up over the wall and down. Although that longer distance is
sufficient for code (for human safety), your interest involves
something that must also exceed code. IOW the new 6 AWG ground wire
should pass through that wall resulting in less length and fewer sharp
Those other utilities also must be earthed 'less than 10 feet' to the
Water pipe must be bonded. Bonded is not for earth ground. That
bonding is essential for human safety reasons. Water pipe bonding
need not meet the 'less than 10 foot', no sharp bends, etc criteria.
But a water pipe must be bonded (not to earth ground) to breaker box
safety ground. That bonding serves a different master.
Should all incoming wires not enter at the same location, then one
utility offers a suggestion how to single point ground those widely
An answer to gfretwell's question is important for understanding
what you have.
Even though his post is not relevant to earthing, still, what
volts500 suggests for human safety should also be considered since you
are examining both earthing and safety ground systems: "Grounding Rod
Info" on 12 July 2003 at
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