That is the only lead coming off the magneto (not to be confused with charging or lighting coils) of the engine and is grounded to shut off the engine. I guess originally the "P" was for "primary" as it is also possible to short the high voltage or "secondary" lead to ground to stop the engine.
Comments led me to replace the battery & I still have the problem. More te sting leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacemen t. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Sn apper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusio n on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part. I have local dealers for both looking into this. Both cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise damag e could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.
This info led me to identify that this is one of the problems. One of hurdles is colors in owners manual wiring diagram are for a Kawasaki engine rather than Briggs Stratton.
have the problem. More testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple of the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacement. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It is a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confusion on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
cautioned to not to replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise damage could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.
Wonder if the existing part has some numbers?
Do you have owners manual with exploded parts?
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good luck on getting parts. might be better off to install a non keywed switch or relay
That is the source for my part numbers
would prefer that if I knew it would not damage electric system
testing leads me to think problem is ignition switch. Failed in a couple o f the tests suggested by repair book. Now my problem is finding a replacem ent. Corporate takeovers have changed model numbers and part numbers. It i s a Snapper Brush & Field Mower with Briggs & Stratton engine. Seems like Snapper and Murray merged. Then Briggs & Stratton took them over. Confus ion on me as to is the switch an engine part or a brush cutter part.
o replace part until I was certain I have the correct ones... otherwise dam age could occur. Part# doesn't show on their searches.
If it's the ignition switch then the simple test is will the starter crank properly when you apply 12V to to starter solenoid directly, bypassing the switch and safety interlock switches?
Remove the ignition "P" lead from the switch. It only needs to be connected to shut off the engine. If it runs fine with the wire disconnected you have a bad switch. You need a switch that closes to shut off, not one that opens - so an automoitive style ignition switch will not work. You need a "magneto" switch An acs a-510-2 from Aircraft Spruce would do the job but pretty pricy at $124.50 US!!. Virtually any small engine keyed ignition swotch should do the job . Is it a 6 terminal or 7 terminal switch??? Briggs
6 terminal Part Number: 092377MA and 7 terminal Part Number: 092556MA are about $16 (key extra - your old key will likely work as they are not tumbler locks)
Forget my statement about the "P" lead. The Briggs electric start is an inertia drive starter with a solenoid switch. Grab your booster cables and "jump" the solenoid. If the starter works you know the problem is in the switch, solenoid, or wiring. If it does not, it is battery, cables, or starter.
If it starts jumping the solenoid, use a small jumper wire from the battery side of the solenoid to the "control" terminal of the solenoid. This is the wire that goes to the ignition switch. If jumping here (battery power direct to solenoid coil) makes it work it is wiring or switch.
If neither works, use booster cables from battery positive to starter lug, and try. If it still does not work jump from battery negative to engine ground (starter mounting bolt works good). If it still does not start it is either the battery or the starter. Jump from your car battery. If it starts, your battery is FUBAR.. Remove battery and put jumpoer cables from car to battery cable ends. If it starts then, you know it is JUST the bad battery.. If the battery is hooked up backwards the starter will spin but will not engage and crank the engine because it is running backwards.
What problem are you still having?
A Snapper switch should be easy to check with a VOM. If you unplug the connector, I believe Snapper switches are marked M for magneto and G for ground. The meter should show an open with the key in the run position and continuity in the off position.
I believe Snapper switches use B for battery and S for solenoid. They should show continuity with the key in the start position and open otherwise.
If it looks bad, a squirt may fix it. I had intermittent trouble cranking my car engine. My meter showed the problem was in the switch contacts. Squirting contact cleaner in there fixed it temporarily. Squirting WD-40 in there fixed it permanently.
Where I am now (yesterday) is that I replaced the battery. Battery store v erified old battery was no good. I still am having the same problem except I can start engine by shorting across two main leads to solenoid. Once sta rted it runs fine. At least I don't have to had crank that 16 HP engine. I have ordered new ignition switch from Snapper. That was much trouble because the merger s & take overs (Snapper, Murray, and Briggs-Stratton) affected part number .
Welcome to the club. I suggested the direct test, using battery cables, in my first post, days ago. I did hear something about him trying to run the starter with 10 gauge wire.....
verified old battery was no good. I still am having the same problem exce pt I can start engine by shorting across two main leads to solenoid. Once s tarted it runs fine. At least I don't have to had crank that 16 HP engine. I have ordered
ers & take overs (Snapper, Murray, and Briggs-Stratton) affected part numb er.
So, bypassing the solenoid and applying 12V to the starter, it works. Next question is, when you turn the start switch, do you have 12V on the small wire going to the solenoid? Solenoid clicking? If no 12V, then it's ignition switch, interlock switches, or wiring. If you have 12V, then the solenoid is bad.
Is there 12V on the wire at the ignition switch when in the crank position? If no, then it's the ignition switch. If yes, then it's an interlock switch or the wiring.
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