Have a Lift Master auto-opener in my 2 car garage...both remotes startyed to
need multiple presses on the button for awhile...then they both stopped.
Replaced the battery (correct battery) in both but still no results.
The inside opener pad works fine...?...what can I do to trouble shoot and/or
repair this issue ?
Is the inside pad wired to the unit or is it wireless? If it's wired I
would suspect the radio receiver in the opener has malfunctioned
and there isn't anything you could do. If you code the remotes to the
opener electronically you coud try to recode them.
No insult intended. First check the batteries and make sure you installed
them correctly and that they are good. Just because you bought them new
does not mean they are good.
Second thing to check is that the battery contacts are touching the battery.
We just went though that with a single remote. How the contacts got sprung
is beyond me. Happening to 2 units at the same time would be even stranger.
Another long shot. Make sure the safety eyes are fully showing green. For
some reason if they are slightly off or have an intermittent signal the
wired inside control always works better that the wireless.
And last is the most expensive. It might be the receiving unit on the
Do let us know what you find.
That brings up another idea. A fellow at work changed his battery on the
key that opens his car door. It would not work. Then he looked under the
lid and it said to get near the car and hold the open button down and maybe
another one for several seconds.
Some openers use a rolling code and if they have the button pressed too
many times while out of range of the receiver or the battery is replaced,
the codes get out of sequence and need to be reset.
I'm not the OP but for someone else, I already know I need another
receiving unit. Are those the words I should look for?
Do I have to buy both fobs and receiving unit? Or buy a receiving
unit made for the fobs.
Or is it all universal?
I really don't know. I have never had one die. I would start by seeing if
the MFG has a website and a PDF version of the manual and parts list.
Determine what they call it.
I suspect that there is no such thing as universal. I also suspect that
with the pricing strategy currently in effect that you might be better off
replacing the opener. All the parts I have purchased in recent years are
way out of line with the retail selling price of a new anything. Changing
out an opener with one of a similar design should only take a few hours for
the average handy person. Only hand tools would be required and nothing
dangerous about it.
Actually, I don't even have a garage door and neither does my friend,
but he bought a house that used two remotes and receiver to turn on
the house floodlights before the driver, especially his wife, gets out
of the car. In some mad cleaning moment, he threw away the receiver
when he didn't know what it was, and now needs a replacemnt.
So I ought one on ebay for 35 dollars, new, and even though the input
voltage was within the acceptable range, it burned out after a couple
uses. The vendor sent me another one for free, but the same thing
I must have done something wrong, or he had very inferior receivers,
but either way, I have to get another receiver and start again.
I still have the fobs that came with the first and second receivers,
so it would be nice if the new receiver could use its fobs and the 4
fobs he bought last year. :) Although first things first is to get
wrote:> Actually, I don't even have a garage door and neither does my friend,
My only experience with a light control that used the extra buttons on the
remote was a very simple system purchased from Sears. The entire receiver
replaced a single pole light switch. There was nothing else connected to
the lighting circuit. It worked with any remote that had dip switches to
set the broadcast code. When I bought it in 1986 or so the price was less
I later saw a similar device marketed by Genie. I did a quick search on
Google using "remote light control" without the quotes. Complete new
systems are less than $50. Trying to pair old and new is always a chancy
Motion sensor lights have gotten really cheap over the last few years and
may be a better, cheaper option. I spent less than $25 for a dual head
floodlight with motion at Lowes last fall.
That sounds great, if I can still find it. Even better than what they
had, because they also had a manual switch, but when it was turned on
remotely, it used a relay that was unaffected by the manual switch.
They had to bring the remote into the house or use the second one turn
the lights off.
Definitely. That sounds great. I'll look for it too.
You have a point with that, although I got a new floodlight that goes
on with motion and also has an interior beeper that beeps when it goes
on. It goes on a lot, several times anight. when it's windy more than
that. It's not infinitely adjustable, and I think I have it on the
least sensitive of 3 settings, but I'm not sure anymore. It hasn't
been doing this lately. I didn't notice until just now. I dont'
think I unplugged the beeper. I have to check on it tomorrow. Hey, I
walked by 4 nights ago, and it didn't go on. I thought because I was
outside the fence, but now I don't think so. The fence is no more
than 30 feet from the house. Thanks for calling this to my
In addition there are about 8 floodlights, 2 per corner facing
oppsoite ways that all go on at once, but only one switch and one
parallel relay controlling them. So if it goes on more often than it
should, that's 8 lights not just 2. OTOH, maybe it *shoudl* go on if
a burglar walks by. If we could get it so it only works when they
drive into their driveway and not when people walk down the sidewalk,
which happens a lot.
A lot to think about, not to mention being way behind on my own stuff.
I was replacing the plastic light covers on my opener just the other
day. At closer look I see the wire was on top of the opener (from co.
install ...) I draped the wire down the side and all is well. Maybe
me, but it seems to work much better.
If your opener uses a fixed code set by multiple slider switches, try resetting
all the switches in the receiver, either to a new code pattern or cycle each
switch to the adjacent position and move it back to where it started. Then,
open the cover of one of the remotes and make sure that the slider switches are
set to the same (corresponding) code (switch position pattern). With time, you
could have developed some oxidation at the contact point on one of the sliders
in the receiver and by cycling or moving the slider, you can clean off the
contacts and make a better connection.
It's a long shot, but worth the time before spending big $$ getting the unit
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