Floors are rarely level, even in brand new construction.
I was extremely careful about framing everything level and square when we
built our house. But by the time we got to the cabinets, the lumber had
shrunk, things settle, etc. so the kitchen floor was no longer level.
Older homes are usually much worse.
As mentioned above, shimming is almost always necessary to get the
cabinets level, regardless of what surface you mount them on.
Floors and walls are rarely flat. There are usually bows, dips, ripples,
or textures you have to deal with.
You install the cabinets, shimming to get them all level and plumb. Then
you install the toekick board to cover the bottom of the cabinets. It's a
fairly simple matter to scribe the bottom of the board to match any
unevenness in the floor.
In my case, I beveled the backside of the toekick board at a 45 degree
angle. That left a nice sharp edge on the front of the toekick board that
easily conforms to minor imperfections with a bit of downward pressure.
If the flooring has larger bumps and gaps, you would just scribe the
board to match.
Unless your floor is REALLY out of level, you're not going to notice a
1/2 inch to 1 inch difference in the slopes, especially back under the
toe kick area.
Most people are likely to replace cabinets and/or appliances before they
would replace a tile floor. If the cabinets are on top of the tile,
that's easy to do. If the tile was an afterthought, you'll have a lot of
gaps to deal with.
Also, unless you build custom cabinets, most stock cabinets are designed
to provide a 36" counter height from the top of the flooring. If you
install tile AFTER installing the cabinets, your counter top will end up
lower in relation to the floor. Especially if you add backer board and
Most tile comes in 2", 6", or 12" squares/rectangles/etc.. Cabinets often
vary in dimension, but even modular cabinets will vary a bit depending on
the shimming needed along uneven walls.
There's no guarantee the tile and cabinets will line up visually
regardless of which comes first.
Yes, you could spend the time to line up the grout lines with existing
cabinets, but you could just as easily plan out the tile layout before
the cabinets go in. It's just a matter of planning.
If you're trying to plan ahead, it would be wiser to have the front edge
of the cabinet land in the middle of a tile instead of trying to line it
up on a grout line. Your eye won't notice a 1/2 to 1 inch difference in
the middle of the tile. But if your cabinets line up with a grout line,
even a 1/4 inch misalignment will stand out. The same reason you try to
plan for half tiles along walls, so you don't end up with little narrow
tiles that would highlight imperfections.
depends a lot upon other factors, how much you
like doing that sort of thing, if you're skilled
enough to make it look good, how much time you have,
what the local market is like, ask the local realtors
(but most likely they will encourage you to do
improvements as it is money in their pocket if a
house sells for more).
IMO, none of that, if you count your labor and the
cost of materials you will rarely recover the expenses.
also figure the time to sale. right now is spring,
get it on the market and let it go. you want to be
moving in the fall or winter?
if i buy a place all of those are things that i
would redo for myself to suit my own tastes. why
would i want to pay more $ for things i'll replace
or redo eventually? if someone repaints with cheap
paint it sucks, same for the rest of it...
much better to make sure the roof is done well
and that the exterior is sound. take care of anything
that would be a problem for the new owner but otherwise
get out and move on.
Buying, I agree with you. Selling, I do not. Ever watch any f the TV
shows about real estate? Seems there are a lot of unimaginative buyers
that just want to move in and do nothing. They reject houses for silly
things too, that you or I can change in an hour.
The people that quibble over the appliances are the ones that I don't
understand. When dealing with a house that is over $ 200,000 they worry
about a thousand or two worth of the appliances.
I bought a house about 12 years ago and to make my wife happy, the master
bathroom was stripped to the studs and redone to make it look the way she
wanted before we moved in.
The house I sold was turned over to some people I know and I told them to
give it a 'fluff and buff'. Just paint, a few minor things,and I did
replace some vinal flooring as it was well worn. Hail storm happened about
that time , so the insurance paid for a new roof. Sold it myself in about
I'm not so sure. I came in late to the thread so I may have missed
Interior paint should be last in my experience to avoid dinging it up
when doing the other work. The prep work can be done while you're doing
the other work.
As others have said though, check with local realtors to see if you will
get your investment back. Of course, if the house sells quicker, and you
"lose" a couple of thousand, then you may be better off.
Are all those things necessary? Sounds like a lot of work to make a
house ready for sale. I'd talk to a couple of realtors first. Often
times, that stuff doesn't pay off.
Do the things that need doing, but be careful of the money and time you
invest. Sounds like you might not get a lot of that back.
A few years ago, we sold a house and all we did was update the flooring
and paint. Sold almost immediately.
If the place is a "dump" just getting someone to look at it, much
less buy it, may require all of the above.
An empty chicken coop is hard to sell in any market. So is a house
that has had the interior basically destroyed. A little lipstick on
the pig CAN go a long way. However, if it is basically in good shape,
you are unlikely to get your money back - much-less make a profit.
As for flippers - I wouldn't buy the average "flip" for any price.
In most cases it's a lot of lipstick on a dead pig.
I our market it seems virtually everything that sells is "move in
ready". My house has to have the paint done and I feel redoing the
shower is a must, it' just not "nice enough" for the market plus the
whole bathroom is "brass" which apparently is way out of style now. In
fact, most of the light fixtures are brass and I figure they will need
to be replaced with some kind of bronze/brushed nickel or similar to
fit the market. And the flooring is all 25 years old and just plain
out of date and style. Then there are the counter tops... plain old
laminate. Way out of style now so if I do that the cabinets also need
to be replaced.
House up the street was on the market for over a year and it was
painted with new carpet, pretty much fixed up to what I would consider
fine move in condition. Didn't sell, didn't sell. Finally sold for
about 50K less then the original asking price to a flipper. He gutted
it, took out walls to create a very large "great room" setup, took out
fireplace, filled in sunken living room, rearranged the bathroom,
including moving the toilet so there was more room for a bigger
shower, completely redid and rearranged the kitchen with all new
everything. Then sold it for $150K more then he paid. I forget the
exact prices but at the time I calculated that he made at least $75K
for his three months worth of trouble. Houses around here just don't
sell "as-is" except for rock bottom prices to flippers.
I am not sure how the dual agent works but know what it is. When I wanted
to buy a house that was listed in the paper I went to the agency and asked
about it. Got one agent that was not the listing agent, She then had to
act as both buying and selling. Not sure if that is a way for them to get
more money out of them or not.
I could see that if I had went to another agency and just asked them to find
me a house and they found one for sell by another agency.
Did he have a permit for removing the walls? And an engineering
report? Was it a load bearing wall, and if so was it properly
supported? This is what happens in so many flips. The walls are
removed to give "open concept" and the proper support restructuring is
not done.. Then to top it all off, the electrical changes are not done
properly, and there is no inspection and no permits - 6 months later
the plaster/drywall is cracked because the structure is sagging - and
the new owner has no recourse.
I would NEVER buy a flipped house without very extensive documentation
of what was done. Way too many pitfalls.
I've looked at a few around here where there were NOT any extensive
renovations, like moving walls - and they were scary enough!!!
email@example.com posted for all of us...
Yup, they ain't all Flip or Flop material.
Some of the renovations I have seen done by owners are scary and they aren't
even flipping them.
It's even scarier since I've been watching Holmes makes it right. Houses 5
to 10 years old disaster areas because there is no knowledge or
craftsmanship. Supposedly "good builders" The low bid gets the job.
There are a few builders in this area that I wouldn;t touch their
BEST house with a 10 foot pole.
One contractor who was known for building top quality custom homes was
not selling many houses back in th '80s, when builders started
building gussied up chicken coops and calling them houses.
Old Bill said "if they want junk, i'll build 'em junk" and he started
building low-buck houses - pretty well put the worst of the cheap
contractors out of business. And his were better houses.( not saying a
whole lot, mind you!!)
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