"secure enough"? have you heard about "bump keying"?
key locks DO follow the KISS principle.
BTW,you can also buy mechanical 5-button combination locks that fit in the
standard door lock cutouts.My apt.complex uses one on the door from the
pool to the clubhouse.
re: "why couldn't the deadbolt be in the doorframe and then it could
be powered from the house AC, perhaps with a Li-ion battery backup?"
Doable, but highly impracticable, at least as I picture it. Maybe you
are envisioning something different.
As they are built today, they are a direct replacement for a cylinder
deadbolt. As long as the door and frame is bored for a deadbolt, you
can swap one for the other all day long. You can also replace a non-
working unit with ease since everything is out in the open. The main
difference between the automated ones and a cylinder deadbolt is the
motor/electronics mechanism that mounts on the inside face of the door
slab. If memory serves me correctly, the housing for the mechanism is
approximately 3" x 6" x 2" deep.
To put the deadbolt - and the firing mechanism - in the door frame
would require changes to the frame and probably the rough opening.
The motor and electronics would have to be mounted in the wall.
How would you access it if it needed service? An access panel on the
face of the frame might help, but directly behind that is the rough
opening framing. Maybe you could get away with cutting out an access
hole in 2 x 6 construction, but you'd be removing most a 2 x 4. Other
than that, you.need an access panel in the wall, like a plumbing
access. Not very attractive in a living room or foyer.
Are you picturing something different?
re: With the electronic deadbolt, your doorknob hand has no feedback.
But I think your eyes and ears do.
Granted, I've only played with the in-store sample, but the deadbolt
motor makes a distinctive sound as it throws the deadbolt. In addition
when I was mashing buttons the sample went into some kind of "error
mode", flashing it's lights and beeping its beeper.
I am assuming that it is designed such that it will give a visible and
audible indication if the deadbolt does not engage properly. I'll
agree that it would be different than keeping turning-pressure on the
key as you jiggle the door until the key turns, so that could be an
This is bad practice. The bolt it there to provide secondary locking. The
latch is there to keep the door shut.
What happens with a zero clearance deadbolt installation is that the
slightest bit of door swell or whatever causes the internal components of
the deadbolt to flex back and forth as the lock is actuated. This causes
Not good in you are on the outside trying to get in and something snaps.
As a locksmith since 77, I recommend about 1/32" clearance horizontally for
a deadbolt. Vertically I like to center the bolt in the strike hole.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
I sure feel a lot more comfortable with mechanical keys. Not
that power goes off every day, but often enough. The Kwikky
you show, should give you years of service. Please feed it
good quality alkaline or lithium AA cells for good service.
Go with the electronic deadbolt, they are super! We have had them both
on our home and on our shop for over four years. Don't worry 'bout the
batteries, just change them every two years or so to be on the safe
side. Ours are four years old and I have not changed the batteries yet.
The neat thing is that you can put in a temporary combination to let
someone use for a given period of time and then remove that combination
when it is no longer needed. This option is great for when you are going
to be gone for a period of time and want to neighbor to check your home
every so often.
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