I hooked up both sister's dish washers, and both of them had a kick
plate at the front of the machine that could be removed to allow access
to the motor and pump under the dish washer. In both cases, the water
valve was right at the front of the machine (just behind the kick plate)
so that you had good access to the water valve for connecting a water
supply line to it. One sister had a Maytag Performa dish washer, which
was a builder's brand, and I forget what the other sister had.
Braided stainless steel would certainly be a bit easier because of it's
greater flexibility, but there's no reason why soft copper tubing
wouldn't work well and last just as long. You just have to make a
compression connection, that's all.
Perhaps what would sway my choice the most is that with a braided
stainless steel water supply, you can disconnect and reconnect the
supply tube to the water valve a gazillion times, but you can't do that
more than a few times with a compression connection without concern that
the connection is going to leak even when fully tightened. I don't know
if the braided stainless steel dish washer supply hoses are different,
but other stainless steel supply hoses have a gasket built right into
the 3/8 end that seals off any leaks, whereas with a 3/8 inch
compression fitting relies entirely on metal-to-metal contacts to
prevent water leaks, and I'd trust a gasket to stop a leak better than
Right. Some have oodles of space underneath to work. Some don't. The
higher-end tend not to. They want to squeeze every square inch (and
particularly every vertical fraction of an inch) into interior space
and insulation. Contractor grade units are trivial to install.
It'll last, alright, if it's installed correctly. Unfortunately, you
often can't tell if it gets kinked when the machine is slid back. It's
not usually such a problem with a 'fridge because you can see it as
it's slid back. It still happens, though.
On 8/29/2013 9:00 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Steel is all that I would think of using....one experience with a flood
was enough. Fortunately, we were home when the washer hose let go, and
two rooms were flooded before we could stop the water. Complicated by
water shooting all over the wall behind the washer, I couldn't reach
back to shut off the water there because it was also hitting the elec.
plug for the dryer....didn't want to stand in water and touch either
machine. Even with the water shut off at the main entry, in our condo
it took a while for the pipes to drain. Since we had just finished
remodeling the kitchen and put a brand new oriental rug in the D.R., the
next quest was for a big vacuum. With my hysteria, hubby was only too
happy to rush out and rent a super vac with a squeegee that slurped the
floor dry. No damage done.
Norminn, for all your hysteria, you have to be the only woman in 10
miles who would say after that that there was no damage done.
A lot of people would think they need a new dining room table and all
kinds of other things.
Well, we had about 1" of water in the kitchen, adjoining the laundry
room, and I didn't want to think of the plywood cabinets with brand new
facing beginning to expand or warp, hence my degree of hysteria :o) My
husbands always move fast when I am approaching hysteria....that
particular one divorced me. Fine with me.
Done, about a year before the flood. New tile and paint job in D.R. We
were pretty much done with renewing/replacing/refreshing....hubby got
mad when I tore up faded, old wool carpet in guest room without his
permission. I had been pretty much out of the habit of seeking
permission for about ... oh, 40 years.
I don't see where it would present a problem. No worse than any other
plastic that is used for water supply.
BTW, my last house was built in 1948 and had a lead water main from the
street into the house. No one living there ever had a problem, nor did
anyone from the other few hundred houses built that way.
Most of that just depends on the pH of the water.
Hard water with a high pH will coat the inside of the pipe and
sequester the lead to some extent. If you have mildly acidic water,
the lead is coming along for the ride.
All that said, most lead is actually traced back to kids eating paint.
On 10/10/2013 03:18 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I think the stainless steel braided lines have a rubber or plastic
interior anyway. I just installed one a few days ago but did not examine
If it is stainless steel all the way through it's fine.
Stainless steel fixtures and work areas in the food industry are usually
BTW: My house was built in 1898 and the incoming water line is lead.
I had my water tested and was told first to use NO water for 12 hours so
it could stand in the pipes ...then a water sample was taken. Next a
second sample was taken after I just let the water run until cold.
The first sample had a tiny trace of lead in it...but the 2nd was lead
free. I was told that the simple act of flushing a toilet was enough to
clear the lines.
As a precaution though I put a filter on the kitchen sink and have a
Side note: Most of my adult life I have been living in old apartments
which were certainly fed by lead pipes. ...and finally:
For my job...I worked with industrial batteries which are made of
lead...so I was required to have lead tests every six months.
My lead level was almost immeasurable...certainly well below anything to
Yep...due to my age and the inflexibity of my bladder I am usually up at
4am. No lead accumulating in my water lines :)
Now a BIG QUIZ for anyone interested:
I figured it was about time I replaced that leaky water hose. Even
though the hardware store had one of the correct length...why did
Philo's brain select this one?
Hint: It was not simply because a shorter hose would have a sharper bend
and possibly crack (eventually).
It was the same price so you got more for your money
You liked the nice curve
The curve lessens water hammer
You for got the measurement so figured longer is better
You just had this lifelong desire for a longer hose (understandable)
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