I have not got one, so can only go on what others have said. They seem to be more refined than the standard recip saws - and logic would suggest be better in the situation you suggest.
On 15 May,
Not with an angle grinder!
I have one of the few wood cutters for an angle grinder - the Arbortech disk. It's also just about the scariest power tool I use (I refuse to use a Lancelot angle grinder disk) I've never seen a saw blade for an angle grinder and wouldn't trust it at that speed anyway.
This is not a good idea.
Ah, well I *had* one of those. Took me ages to find someone to give it away too! ;-)
A bit like:
They have a very short stroke, and fairly fine teeth so cut very slowly. They use B&D single source blades that are expensive. They vibrate excessively. The larger saw looking blade tends to set up side to side vibration so much that the end tends to hack a wide trench out of the wood rather than cutting it. It has a jigsaw mode where it behaves just like the worst jigsaw you have ever used only not as well.
I still have my first drill, bought in the early '60s. Cost IIRC 11 quid - pretty well a week's take home for me and I wasn't in a badly paid job.
3/8th chuck two speed B&D - all aluminium and painted blue. It still works well - but I did have it overhauled at B&D in the 70s as I had a mate who worked at the factory in Spennymoor? and at least the gearbox was changed as that is now gold. Had a circular saw and jigsaw attachment for it - both pretty useless.
They were certainly available long before that - but often the prices were prohibitive - partly because other than basic things like drills, much of the kit was professional level stuff not really aimed at the general public.
(That £84 would be something like £270 ($400) in today's money allowing for inflation).
You definitely want a low-viscosity blade.
If you're so sure about it perhaps you would like to demonstrate for us and get your next of kin to put the video up on U-tube.
Heh-heh, blade tip travelling at beyond even rail gun projectile hypersonic speed would be fun.
RPS = 4500rpm / 60 = 75 Circumference is 2*Pi*R = 2 * 3.14 * 0.19/2 = 0.59m Circumferential speed = 75 * 0.49 = 44m/sec.
At 4,500rpm you have almost 100 miles per hour. At 10,000rpm you have
200 miles per hour. Quite a few angle grinders run 12,000rpm, still far below the sound barrier.Due to the way an angle grinder is mechanically driven, stopping one in motion as with a tree root will hurl the saw at speed. A chainsaw will not do this hence eminently less dangeous than a freakin angle grinder.
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A chain saw Can kick back. Hence the use of face shield and helmet when using one.
Here's one nearly done in by his digital video camera ..
Your mind is made up so I know this is a waste of time. Your wild ass statement about a diamond blade kicking back and cutting a man's neck is pure hyperbola, fiction, and prevarication. A diamond blade would be very hard pressed to cut your hand if you ran it into your hand at full speed. They do an excellent job cutting really hard things like glass and tile, they really suck on anything else.
I have no idea what an alligator saw is. I've been in the commercial contracting business for over 50 years so please enlighten me as I may need one some day.
You may not be strong enough to hang onto a grinder when the blade hits something, be it a tree root or whatever, but I sure as hell am and have done so, though that is NOT the object when using the tool.
The reason most us have said to not use the grinder with a blade has much more to do with the OP's opening line which said that he was not experienced. Let it alone.
I really hate it when people babble and pontificate about things of which they have no experience. If you have information or experience to share, have at: otherwise, sit back and listen (read).
aemeijers wrote in news:Lo2dnemoyb3-tG3WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
my best HF buy was an exact clone of a Bosch 1581 jigsaw for >$100 less than what the Bosch would have cost. I don't use it often,but it works great. they don't sell them any more,either.
Chain saws will most certainly kick back - as Lobby says. Very violently in fact. The face shield and helmet are of no value if they do kidk back that hard - they'll just disappear in the blood splatter. Face shields and helmets are useful for lesser flying debris but they sure as hell won't stop a chain coming at your head. Regardless - not only will chainsaws kick back - they are very well known for this capability. Evidence that the previous poster knows nothing at all about using chainsaws - and all the reason to ignore his comments.
I think that is what most of the people who really understand angle grinders have been saying.
Downside??? You have to be willing to hold and use the tool properly. Anything less does not result in a "downside".
That is why they have that flexible foot on them, to press up against the work being cut. Sounds like somebody was trying to reach too far. Like any power cutting tool, you gotta plan your cut before you pull the trigger. No saw works well to cut the end off a spring hanging in mid-air. That is why those tree-pruning saws on the long poles are of such limited usefulness, other than right up by the trunk or a thick main branch.
Only in England you say??? Pity!! (NOT)
Anchor the work and use the foot.
Tip: Quick-Grip clamps are crap for anchoring work you are trying to cut with a reciprocating saw. The vibration loosens the clamps and you wind up resetting them multiple times. Not that I'd know that, it happened to somebody who lives in my neighborhood.
Didn't mean to imply that the face shield or helmet would stop a chain. They might gain enough time for the chain brake to engage.
Thick branches and right up against the trunk is the Intended use.
That is what the foot is for, to stop the material being pulled forwards by the cutting stroke. You don't have to hold it tightly at all.
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