That may be true, but enough tolerance is built in to handle that slight heat difference. I actually should not have said to stray from the manufacturers recommendations. My error in retrospect.
Why a lampshade? As opposed to a globe, or so the UV won't shine in your eyes. :)
If the lamp sockets are ceramic (china-like) material you may get away with it. If the sockets are plastic/bakelite material would not recommend it. Even at the 'rated' wattage non-ceramic sockets often crack and deteriorate in my experience. In fact I would even de-rate- to 40 watt bulbs unless the fixture sockets are nice and open /well ventilated. However for a few dollars you can usually rebuild a light fixture with ceramic sockets. Probably cost you around ten bucks? As others have suggested you could try non-incandescent lamps (CFLs for example.) My opinion.
Should have a porcelain socket for 75 watt, or at least one rated for
75 watt. A plastic one may melt. Best not to exceed the max rating sticker on the socket.
Lampshade will allow air to move over the hot base. Globes just retain heat and let it build.
I would say there's a danger if the manufacturer took the time to put a warning on there. What I have seen on a lot of fixtures is a piece of adhesive foil foam above the light, or where the light comes close to anything. I'd just buy a safer higher wattage fixture and be safe.
I have used 75's and 100's in sockets for 60's but didn't feel safe with them.
Steve
I am using 2 100w equivalent Daylight CF's in my office and it is quite nice. The fixture is rated for 2 60w incandescent bulbs. It takes less than a minute to reach full brightness.
I'm *sure* it's true, on several counts: first, I *have* seen that damage, and second, I'm quite sure you have *not* seen it, or you wouldn't suppose that there is no harm in exceeding the recommendations.
Guess again. That's why the manufacturer puts limits on there. If there was enough tolerance to handle 75W safely, the socket would be marked 75W instead of 60W.
There you go. They put those recommendations there for a reason.
Never mind the sockets -- what about the fixture wires?
Don't do it.
Please listen to Doug and don't do it. Especially not in something that you won't look at for extended periods of time like a porch light.
I think this is the answer to the OP's problem. Just stick some CFs in there. You can get a 100-watt equivalent for only 23 watts - well below the
60-watt limit.
No, that is not the answer. CF are not to be used in a globe. Read the fine print on the box and you will see then specify otherwise.
I have a Flourescent (sitting around) that I'll screw in every year or so. Then I'll see the hue that it throws off and remember why I shelved the stupid thing in the first place. I hate those bulbs. Hurts my eyes..
I'll pay 100 bucks a year NOT to have a headache all the time..
The manufacturer put the warning on; but did so after passing a UL test which sets upper limits to lamp wattage based upon fire and electrical safety. The UL tests consider socket temperatures, deterioration of wire insulation and the life of the materials used in the fixture assembly. Exceeding the wattage limit voids the UL listing.
TKM
Come off the light-fixture box to two additional lights, with their own switch loop. Then you can turn on the reading lamps only when you actually want them.
"TKM" wrote
And just exactly what happens when one voids the UL listing? Do you get a notice? Do the UL Police send a guy by?
Steve
VOIDS THE UL LISTING!!! That sounds very serious. I thought it would do something simple like start a fire.
Steve
Been using 75 watt bulbs in two, two bulb mirrorside vertical light bars for 16 years with no evidence of damage to the Bakelite bulb bases. And I'm certain these fixtures are at least 25-30 years old. Guess they just don't make em like they used to.
"Meat Plow" wrote
I've seen a lot of old fixtures where there was discoloration due to heat, and don't think there's a very high degree of danger.
When thinking of things engineering wise, I always extrapolate to the nth degree. Like, what if someone would put in a 2,000 watt bulb? Sometimes it makes the visualization of the math and algebra and angles and leverage simpler so that one can comprehend "If I do this, that happens, and if I do that, this happens."
I, myself, like to stick to the 60w bulb in a 60w rated receptacle, but will go against that in cases where I need more light, or the 100s are on sale.
Steve
Check the fixture wires for brittle, damaged, flaking insulation before you decide anything about the degree of danger. It's not just the socket you need to worry about.
If you've been in the habit of using 100W bulbs in 60W rated fixtures, I strongly recommend that you examine the fixture wires for damage. You might be surprised (and appalled) at what you find.
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