220 vs. 110 for Hot Tub

Use at least a 12 gauge wire, 10 gauge is better in the long run but it is harder with work with and has a little more initial cost. The higher voltage 220, when used on any wire, will have cooler wires than running 110v. So, more energy will be lost to heat using the lower voltage. A 220v circuit will require special plug and outlet, a little more cost than a 110v outlet/plug. Personally, I'd go with the

Correct, I used the wrong term

When I bought a Hot Springs spa in 1989 one of its features is that needed no special wiring other than a dedicated 120 volt, 20 amp circuit. Either the jet pump or the heater with its small circulating pump run at any one time -- not both together. Typically it takes 24 hours to warm fresh tap water (about 70 degrees F) to spa temperature. Slow by 240 volt spa standards, but no 240 volt circuit necessary.

Most I have wired is a simple conifguration plug that has to me removed and changed on teh power unit or straping options inside the unit, etc. usually does not require units to be replaced to operate on either 120 or 240V

Dude, you have one hell of a serious communication problem.

All you have to remember is .........

nine ............

one .............

one ............

Hope this helps.

I don't think he means the line cord "plug". Pool pump motors usually have an internal plug to swap from 120 to 240 and I assume he means another "configuration" plug that you move to select 120/240 in the controller.

Jeff

When you put 240 volts across the same resistance, you get twice the current flow and 4 times the power. The water heats up 4 times as fast, but uses the same total amount of energy. In actuality, the total energy used by the spa is slightly less with 240, because the pump will run about 1/4 as long circulating the water while the heater is on, plus their is also a small savings in loss in the line along the way.

I see no way you are

The resistance

Actually, at 120V, the spa will use more energy because the pump has to run in circulating mode while the heater is on raising the water temp. The pump should be on roughly 4 times as long.

I have a similar question. I am considering exchanging my tub for a hot tub, but a small one, the same size as the standard tub or just a few inches wider.

Why would I need a heater? It's indoors, and hot water comes out of the tap. If it cools off too much while I'm in it (I don't plan on staying until I shrivel up), I can add more hot water. Doesn't the water heater make hot water more efficiently than the heater option? I figured I could save some money by not even installing a heater. Big mistake?

You're confusing a permanent water hot tub/spa with a single fill, single use, indoor tub with jets. There are no faucets on my hot tub. (That I know of....)

A 220 will cost a little less in electricity. Since a 220 pump motor will have to run for 1/4 the time, it will save you maintenence costs for pumps, too. My spas both have two pumps, so you can multiply that out. I used to have a 110 spa, and it seemed like it was working all the time. These 220s run a lot less.

Steve

According to SteveB :

Cough.

A 1HP 220 pump motor will run exactly the same amount of time as a 1HP 110V pump, and consume almost _exactly_ the same power if they're being switched under the same conditions.

Basic physics.

No, that difference was for some other reason. Ie: a much wimpier

Two mistakes. One is using a hot tub as a bath tub, the other is no heater in a soaking tub.

Jeff

That's not what we're talking about here. The spa pump has to run to circulate the water whenever the heater comes on. If he wires the spa for 240V, the heater element remains the same, so the spa will heat up

Yes, a hot tub is one of those nice outdoor things or a large indoor one for multiple folks. Not what I meant. I don't have room for one of those. I was referring to a standard sized tub that has water jets and runs around $600, so perhaps this is the wrong thread to tack on to. However, they do have optional heaters and I will need to run another circuit if I get the heater. I might have to anyway. So what I really meant was, do I need the heater for that?

Right now I don't use the tub at all. But I don't smell because there is a separate stall shower that I do use. Correction, the tub is in use, that is where the cat's litter box resides. Likely the reason that I don't use it for a nice soak; I'd end up entombed by the clumping litter.

So, the plan was to install a shower fixture for the tub and replace the tub with a jacuzzi type tub so it can be used primarily for showering plus the occasional hot soak. The stall shower would likely receive the litter box and perhaps some shelves for storage.

Is there any reason that a Jacuzzi type tube can't/shouldn't be used in this way? Would it need a separate heater? I did hear once that you shouldn't use oil based soaps if you have a jacuzzi, apparently it rots the jets. There is something that I never had to worry about before.

I have both an inside tub with jets and an outside spa. The house came with the tub, I brought the spa from a previous home. Before I shelled out the bucks to install a new inside tub with jets, I would seriously look at going with an outside spa, if you have room. First, for renovations like this, you can wind up having to spend a lot of money to redo tile walls, floors, etc. Add that to the cost of the tub and you're well on your way to a real spa.

The tub has to be filled each time you use it. I don't think a heater is needed, because you likely won't spend that long in it. If it starts to cool, you can always add more hot water. Of course, that's another drawback, you have to fill it, wait and watch it, and all the hot water energy is wasted. And if you're just replacing a std size tub, you barely wind up with enough room for one person.

The outside spa can seat several people comfortably, is always available, and is far more enjoyable to spend time in. I use mine throughout the year. It's great for parties, having a few beers and smoking a nice cigar. Plus, depending on where you put it, the installation may be as simple as running a 240V line to it. They have timers so you can program it to stay at a lower temp most of the time to save energy, but rise at times of the day when you may want to use it. All in all, I think they are far more practical.