I'd guess that the cord is always long enough that you can move the stove away from the wall far enough to walk behind it. After all, they do the reverse of that to install it.
IME, the area under a range is one of the dirtiest anywhere, from food residue, dust bunnies, dead bugs, etc. It's not an area that gets cleaned, apparently. Long before I try to reach in there, I'd slide the range away from the wall.
Cords range from 4' to 10'. I have pulled the plug to work on maybe 5 ranges in different houses, mostly for stove-top 'burners'. Obviously you plug it in again when done. Do you suppose a range could be installed then plugged in through the drawer?
I had no trouble disconnecting ranges. There was structural steel below the drawer. Probably always needs steel structural. You may have big bugs.
Go ahead and pull your range out. The drawer access to the plug has been in the NEC for a long time.
I dug up a 1981 NEC. The requirement for a disconnect was there. A plug connection disconnect accessible through a drawer was also there. (Nothing about using a lockable ckt brkr.) For at least 42 years the NEC thinks this is practical.
You reach through the drawer space, you don't crawl into it. If you are
4' tall it is a problem. If you are in reasonable shape you should be able to do it. As an antique I still can.
OK , I stand corrected . I see that it's just like US 110 , except one terminal end rather than a center tap is the neutral . Is there a
3rd wire for "ground" too or is the neutral grounded like our center tap ?
Here in Canada ranetop outlets are VERY common. Pretty much standard on free-standing (not countertop or built-in) ranges
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Youi can buy "service logks" for MANY residential breakers. My panel os Square D QO - also used in industry - so very readily available
Now you are sounding like Commander Kinzie - - -
Correct - to be 100% Kosher both lines would be switched - but then again in "double insulated" appliances DPST switches are already standard in North America ( as well as in just about every PC power supply)
My wife cleans that area at LEAST twuce a year - I consider myself lucky she hasn't thrown ME out yet -- -
I think Micky's middle name is "Shitstirrer" .
I think they're a very good idea. I don't know why I haven't had them. Neither stove was cheap afaik.
LOL She's a keeper. I'm probably lucky that visitors to my house don't take a look in there.
For residential the utility source is likely one phase of 350/230V
3-phase wye. The neutral in the wye is earthed at the transformers (so the residential utility source is line + neutral). Heavier power users get 3 phase.Standard voltage for UK and Europe is 230V.
The UK has 3 earthing schemes. One of them is the same as the US (N-G bond at the service). One scheme has line + neutral from the utility with the ground only earthed at the residence. This won't necessarily trip a breaker on a H-N short so all circuits are protected by an RCD - Residual-Current Device breaker (GFCI) which may trip at 100mA or higher. The UK required earth (ground) wires long before the US so all sockets (receptacles) are likely earthed.
UK residential ring circuits are common. The circuit starts at the consumer unit (panel), runs around a space and ends back at the panel in parallel with the start. (This is a violation of NEC paralleling rules.) Ring circuits are 32A (or 30) and the wire is rated for about 20A. They used less copper for post-war rebuilding. But appliance cords and appliances are not protected at 32A, so the plugs have fuses, 13A or less.
For many years line cords from UK and Europe are green with yellow stripe - earth (also used here) blue - neutral brown - line Building wiring over the years has multiple inconsistent colors.
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