10 Foot Dryer Cord

Not exactly. The line to neutral load on a dryer or range circuit is a fraction of what it is in a pure 120v circuit, compared to wire size, so the voltage drop on the neutral (rise above ground in this case) is far less. There is also the problem on a 120v circuit that if someone swapped neutral and ground along the way, you are putting 120v directly on the case of your equipment and a 3 light tester will still say "OK".

Reply to
gfretwell
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And the probability of something coming loose on a typical Daisy chained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

Reply to
trader_4

if you want to use a 3 wire 220V system, I suggest you attach an additional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

m
Reply to
makolber

Long ago I got a shock at work hooking up a network cable.

In those days we used shielded bi-ax. I had one hand on the end of the cab le and grabbed another cable to connect to the next computer downstream.

Well, the first computer had hot and neutral switched, and the case was hot . The second computer was wired correctly, and the case was at ground or n eutral (not sure - could be both.) So the cable shield made a path from ch assis to chassis.

If the first computer also had a ground connection, it should have tripped the breaker when we plugged it in. There was no separate ground wire on th at three prong/hole outlet. The safety ground was theoretically supplied b y metallic conduit, and there wasn't continuity all the way back. That sho ws one possible problem with not having a safety ground at the outlet.

Reply to
TimR

Since the 60s, most of those 6-30 three prong receptacles are actually connected to 10/3-wg Romex anyway since that was the standard way it was manufactured. If you look in the box, you may see the bare ground bonded to the box and the neutral connected to the receptacle. Because of the higher temperature/ampacity ratings, stoves may still be wired with SE cable (2 wire plus ground)

Reply to
gfretwell

ed circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

onal safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it to a metal water pipe of other good ground.

ok, sounds like you are talking about a 3 prong 120 v outlet and what you s aid is all true.

but the thread is about 3 prong 220V outlets. One prong is 120v. 2nd is t he other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground pro ng__ which is what can make them dangerous if there is an open fault in the neut ral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a s afety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output that ha s no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for safety .

m
Reply to
makolber

6-30 IS 240v (an old style dryer receptacle)

If the neutral opens on a dryer, it probably will not run since the controls are 120v and so is the motor. With the 6-30 you will have a hot case tho if you do not add the supplemental ground mentioned up thread. Far better than a water pipe is the box for the washer receptacle. There is too much plastic in plumbing to trust a pipe. Even on "all metal" systems you still have water softeners, whole house filters etc and you can't count on people putting a 250.66 bond wire around all of them.

Reply to
gfretwell

Definitely NOT a bad idea. Just make sure the water pipe IS a good ground - or a failure in the drier could make all the plumbing fixtures in the house "live". Make sure the jumper on the water heater and the water meter are both in place and effective.

Reply to
clare

Have we determined exactly where this abomination is? Do we KNOW it is not a Euro plug?

Reply to
clare

Sorry- got mixed up with red and black thread - -

Reply to
clare

hained circuit is a lot higher than with a homerun dryer circuit.

ditional safety ground wire to the case of the appliance and connect it t o a metal water pipe of other good ground.

ou said is all true.

is the other 120V and the third prong is neutral and ___there is no ground prong__

neutral. Code for new installs requires 220V outlets to be 4 prongs to add a safety ground. If you are going to use a older 3 prong 220V output tha t has no safety ground, i was suggesting that you add a ground wire for sa fety.

Yeah, I've been having the same problem.

Reply to
TimR

Dryers vibrate so I'd think their connections might loosen.

Reply to
ralph

its safe only until something goes wrong, then it is very dangerous.

the separate 4th ground wire is intended to keep it safe even if something goes wrong.

m
Reply to
makolber

Boris wrote in news:XnsA7885AC6BC4A7nospamnospaminvalid@213.239.209.88:

Three days ago, I installed a new dryer with the 3-prong, 10' dryer cord, that allowed me to place the dryer in the only spot it could go. I did a couple of loads, and all is well. The cord did not even get warm.

I read all your replies (thanks), and understand the the differences between 3- and 4- wire 220v circuits. Every home I've lived in, so far, has been built before 1996. As time goes by, codes become more and more stringent, sometimes benefiting the end user, sometimes just the contractor/manufacturer. But, I can definitely appreciate grounding a steel cabinet to a home's ground.

Reply to
Boris

Ground and neutral are bonded at the service entrance so no need to waste extra copper on a 4-wire circuit.

Reply to
Roy Biggins

True if everything oes according to plan. What happens if your neutral fails? Being a 240 device, everything still works - unless there is aome 120 components (like the interior light, or the timer) in which case the case becomes live. There IS a GOOD reason 4 wire is now required by code. get used to it.

Reply to
clare

On Fri 23 Jun 2017 06:55:28p, told us...

We're used to it because we have no choice where we now live. All the homes we owned before had 3-wire circuits and there was never a problem. There was certainly no mandate to retrofit for 4-wire For many decades 3-wire was the norm and I doubt that there were that many problems during those years.

Reply to
Wayne Boatwright

Pretty soon the do-gooder guy wire police will run out of guy wires to inspect and they'll be wanting to inspect your electric stove's power cord.

Reply to
Mr. Safety

Boris posted for all of us...

Be sure to check the connectors. I had a buddy that had one of these that called me for a smell of burning plastic. Upon inspection it was a connector which I assumed was improperly done at the factory.

Reply to
Tekkie®

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