I've not worked on a CC, but the 3 or 4 other brands I have worked on
have always had standard (RH) bolts. Blades always seem to have a
secondary way to prevent blade torque from loosening the blade, such
as pins or a star-shaped shaft, or a flat recess for the blade, so the
bolt is not constantly resisting the turning force. Nevertheless, I
usually use a non-permanent thread locking compound (locktite) when
reassembling, and torque to specs.
Agree w/ other poster -- virtual certainty they're RH thread.
If this is follow-up to the post of hard to break loose, use a block
to wedge in between the blade tip and the deck to hold the blade and
get a good 1/2" or larger socket set and breakover handle to get the
torque needed. If need it, add a cheater.
If that doesn't work easily, borrow/rent an impact wrench. The hand,
hammer-actuated type are a little clumsy but can be effective. The
final recourse is heat, but would be unlikely to need it.
I work on lots of different tractors. I honk up the front end and hit the
blade bolts with an electric impact. Zips 'em right off.
All I've come across are r/h thread.
Going back, I just snug 'em up, as normal rotation tends to tighten 'em even
And never, ever, under any circumstances apply a lube such as 5-56 or
wd40 or even oil to the threads. This will cause the blade nuts to over
torque from the spin. Always torque dry blade nuts to manufacturers
specs and you will have no trouble removing them.
Blade bolts always tighten in the direction of rotation. It doesn't take
any torking at all. Just barely snug them with a wrench and they'll tighten
themselves. Unless they are the splined type of blade that is. And not
putting anti-seize on blade bolts is just stupid. They can seize in there
something fierce if you don't.
"wicked" < email@example.com> wrote in message news: firstname.lastname@example.org...
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