New Sod Lawn w/ Weeds

[mchilders]

We just moved into a new house that was completed this winter. The bermuda sod was probably put in around January. We live in NW Arkansas where now the weather is beginning to get around mid 60 - 70s in the day and the weeds are beginning to grow rapidly. Most of the sod is no longer visisble due to the weeds. I went to the Scotts website and found that April 1 - June 1 to apply Scotts Turf Builder Plus 2 Weed Control. So I went to the store and got that, but from reading the package it says not to apply to new sod lawns until after 4 mowings. Now, I have also heard that you are supposed to wait a certain amount of time before mowing new sod to allow its roots to take hold. So I'm not sure what to do... I'm afraid if I wait to long after seeing how quickly these current weeds grew in, I'll have a jungle. So does anyone have any information on what to do with a new bermuda sod lawn with weeds? Most of the info I find online pertains to a new lawn or an established lawn with weeds, but not a new lawn with weeds, and I just want to get some advice before I do something to mess it all up. I also have an sprinkler system... does anyone have any links to good practice watering? Like how much and how often?

Thanks for any help, Matt

[JillAdams]

mowing the weeds wont help. you need to get the weed and root out. So get out a small board or piece of ply wood about 2'x2' or 4'x4' so you can stand or sit on and not hurt the grass roots while you are pulling the weeds out by the roots. Dandilions are the worst to let go to seed since the seeds will blow all over the place in the slightest of winds.

Eiher that or have the sod taken out and use a different company for sod.

[e-mail] wrote:

[George.com]

if you are going to pull the weeds by hand I find a good sharp kitchen knife very useful (the kind you cut up veges or steak with) to cut the stem just under the soil line or work the roots free from the soil.

rob

[Garden Viking]

Did you try the monthly reminder part on their site? It narrows down that timeframe considerably.

Have you been watering? Can you pull up the "carpet" or is it rooted? Water 2 1/2 " per week in the morning only every other day. Good deep soakings. If you mow now, use a bagger to get those bloom tops until you have mowed 3 times and then put down the weed and feed.

[mchilders]

I am now signed up for their newsletter after buying the weed-b-gon max and calling there support number to find out that it can't be used until 3 mowings either.

No, I have not been watering, just moved in a couple weeks ago, and haven't set up the sprinkler system. The "carpet" is not rooted yet.

Can do.

Ok, that's what the person at the Scott's hotline told me, so that's what I'll do. Thanks for the help.

[Kyle Boatright]

You're dealing with Bermuda. In a month or 6 weeks you'll have a great lawn.

Mow it at least once a week for the next 3 weeks.

After that, check to see if the sod has rooted. If so, hit the lawn with a broadleaf weed control product. I like the stuff that comes in a hose end sprayer. If the sod hasn't rooted, wait until it roots and use the broadleaf weed control product.

Later in the season, you'll have crabgrass (it is probably too late to apply pre-emerge now). When the crabgrass appears, buy Image in a hose end applicator and it'll take out the crabgrass.

You may have to repeat one or more of these treatments later in the summer since you don't have a pre-emerge down.

In September, apply a broad spectrum pre-emergent (one that prevents germination of both grass and broadleaf weed seeds). This will prevent most winter weeds.

In late February or early March next year, apply another round of pre-emergent. This will prevent most of the warm weather weeds next summer.

These things will give you a lawn with very few weeds. After that, all the bermuda needs is regular mowing, water, fertilizer, and sunshine...

[mchilders]

That's exactly what I want to hear. ;-)

Printing this out now... thanks for your help.