Ah, the Honeywell FocusPro is not programmable. I am amazed at how much two stage thermostats cost. I would think that there would be lots of models using a relatively cheap micro-controler.
Dan
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Do you want a cheap stat?? or a good one?? In the last couple of months I have replaced several Lux and Hunter stats that failed because they are junk. Out of all of the Honeywell stats I have installed, I have only had to warranty a half dozen. The H'well stats have a 5 year warranty on them too.
I personally think an auto changeover feature on a thermostat for residential is not a good idea ; it could turn on the a/c in cold weather and possibily destroy the compressor if there exists interally generated heat from cooking, many people in the house at one time, or from a lamp too near the thermostat. Id only go with auto changeover if there was a low ambient cutout switch on the a/c unit.
I personally think an auto changeover feature on a thermostat for residential is not a good idea ; it could turn on the a/c in cold weather and possibily destroy the compressor if there exists interally generated heat from cooking, many people in the house at one time, or from a lamp too near the thermostat. Id only go with auto changeover if there was a low ambient cutout switch on the a/c unit.
Think 5 degree dead band.... I have been putting in both the FocusPro and the VisionPro for many years... I have never had a problem with compressors. But then the refrigerant charge is properly balanced by subcooling and superheat, correctly sized ductwork, etc.
The only way I can think of that you would have a problem with the a/c trying to come on in the winter is if the stat is in a closed kitchen when your doing holiday cooking.... not a good idea
A 5 f. dead band is not adequate protection ; if the heating setpoint is low like at 65 f. the sun hitting the thermostat directly or a wood burning fireplace , prolonged oven cooking, etc...could easily push the temperature to 71 f and higher which would trigger the mechanical cooling at an outdoor temperature cold enough to cause equipment harm . Shutting off the a/c breaker is always a good idea in the winter , regardless .
A 5 f. dead band is not adequate protection ; if the heating setpoint is low like at 65 f. the sun hitting the thermostat directly or a wood burning fireplace , prolonged oven cooking, etc...could easily push the temperature to 71 f and higher which would trigger the mechanical cooling at an outdoor temperature cold enough to cause equipment harm . Shutting off the a/c breaker is always a good idea in the winter , regardless .
The 5 degree deadband is a *MINIMUM*... it will not get any closer than 5 degrees. Normal settings are 76F for cooling and 70 for heat. If you drop the cooling below 75F, the 70F set point will drop accordingly. likewise, if the heat set point is raised above 71F, the cooling setpoint will rise according also. When I program a control, the customer will *NOT* be able to get the set point temps any closer than 5 degrees. I also set the temperature stops in the control so it will not go below 70F in cooling, nor above 75F in heating modes.
Its only common sense......and actually reading the directions.
Forgive this newbie question please. On a 2 stage thermostat, the second stage will kick in if the target temperature cannot be reached with the first stage running.
My question is how does the thermostat realize that the target temp will not be reached? I suppose it could be done after a certain time delay or perhaps it measures the rate of temperature increase, or maybe a combination of these two. I imagine there are fancy algorithms used by various manufacturers and I am particularly interested in those made by Honeywell such as the TH6320.
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