I just talked to the tenant in the house. He showed me where the
outside ac unit was freezing. It's at the valve on the end of the
insulated tubing going to the outside compressor unit.
When it freezes, about every few days, the compressor is still
running, but the air handler is not running.
FWI: The syste3m is 9 years old, and ia a Goodman, Janitrol CKT 30-
Any help is appreciated.
I am not AC person However I just can stand by
and read all the crap! why don't you fix your air
handler "fan" see that is running when comprssor
is on and also make sure your filter is clean
I bet 9-1 problem will be fix.
if your air handler does not operate properly
there is no load on cooling coil and eventually will
freeze up and the suction to you compressor like wise.
I am assuming that you know for sure that the inside blower is
not running - as opposed to just no air flowing through the ducts.
If you have a situation where the fan is running, but no air is
blowing, the evaporator has froze up and is blocking the air
flow. Check/clean/replace the filters to ensure proper airflow.
Now, assuming that the inside fan is indeed not running at all,
but the outside unit still is - a highly abnormal condition - here
is my bet:
The outside unit contactor has gone bad and its contacts
are sticking every so often. When this happens, the power
will remain on at the outside unit causing it to continue
to operate. Without airflow inside, the evaporator will
then quickly ice up. Thus, it is a problem with the outside
unit not shutting off as opposed to the inside unit shutting
The contactor is a just a relay that switched the power to the
outside unit. You will have to get the correct one for your unit,
but here is a popular example:
My advice is to get the largest one that will fit your unit.
For example, if they have a 25amp model (such as the Square D
8910DP21V14) and there is a 30amp model with the same mount
and connectors (e.g., 8910DP31V14) go with the latter. 40amp and
above contactors will often not use screw terminals (so you can't
attach loop connectors to them).
The contactor will be the thing the 220V input power cable
Do let us all know how it turns out,
Thanks Mike. It has been running OK for a few days now. I am going to
get a contactor and have it ready.
I haven't been there when it stopped working. The coil has been
cleaned, and no, the system was not run with the air handler cover
Thanks to all
I first called a repair man, who said he has been doing AC work for
30+ years. He checked pressures, filters, duct sizes, evap coil.
He said the low side pressure was a little high? and the coil was a
little dirty from what he could see thru the removable panel.
He also said the return ducting was on the small size.
He cleaned the coil in place. Had to cut into some ducting to get to
it, and said it cleaned up good. He said the pressures were better
after the cleaning.
The next day it had the same problem. No airflow, and compressor
running. My tenant says when it happens, the insulated line at the
compressor freezes up. I havent been able to be there when it
The Tech said putting in another return might fix it.
Because it has been working for 9 years, I'm hesitant to have a new
return put in. Am I wrong here.
I ran ok for 1 1/2 days and this morning it frooze again. Of course he
wasn't able to contact me, so I could check if the coil was frooze. He
shut it off after he couldn't contact me, and when I got there 3 hours
l;ater, it was unfrozen, and the coil had a few drops of water on it.
The pan wasn't very wet, but it's Florida and hot, so maybe it dried
We turned it back on and am waiting for it to stop cooling again.
Some call me cheap for wanting to fix it myself. I just paid the Tech.
$175 for 1 1/4hrs work, which is fine if it fixed it. But it didn't.
I'm retired with a low income, and have more time than money to try to
get it repaired.
Just hope you all understand.
has anybody inspected the ductwork? just because its worked for nine
years does not mean there could be a duct / air flow issue thats just
not being addressed. did anybody wire brush the blower wheel? maybe
the blower wheel is so loaded with crud it cannot move enough air
regardless of how clean the coil may be. maybe the return air duct is
choked off. maybe the tenant has closed off a bunch of grills.
If you had a brain you would call up the $175 guy and tell him you
have the same problem as before his repairs and does he warranty his
work? If he wants to add more return air, let him, pay him, and get
from him a performance warranty. no warranty, no payment. if he
fails tro follow thru on any warranty work, nail his ass to the wall &
contact the BBB as well as any State Licensing Boards etc.
If you have a 9 y/o Janitrol air handler and it still has the original
POS blower relay, I will give you 10 to 1 odds that is the problem. They
go intermittant, and of course never act up while you are watching them.
I usually just replace it with a regular spdt relay and never havve any
more problems. Larry
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