You're talking about the old Lennox that used its liquid lineset as a cap
tube. That was for straight air only. Its not got that.
CY: yes, thanks for the reminder. Couldn't remember wh ich brand did that.
Maybe I'm lazy but I don't routinely clean the condenser unless I suspect
it as a possible problem. There's nothing in my readings that suggest a
dirty condenser as the problem.
CY: I like to use my IR thermometer, and check the temp of the liquid line
coming from the bottom of the condensor. If it's more than a couple degrees
over ambient, I know the condensor isn't releasing the BTU properly.
And what do you set your emissivity to for old copper vs. new copper?
You CAN'T tell a couple of critical degrees one way or another with
an Infrared Thermometer with fixed emissivity!
Why are you using the wrong tools?
We all know...You believe you're smarter then anybody here,
and you'll bullshit your transparent, condescending self here, under
the veil of "politeness", which makes you the most dangerous
con-man of all.
In retrospect, text books will just make you more dangerous to all.
I now vote for the aforementioned rock/head/smash solution.
how about check if unit works better when is little wamer outside
I beleive with out checking that all you need little more refrigerant
at 86 outside temp. your head is low and suction, the instructions
are not always corect, at 86 deg. you head should be around 280
with R-22 perhaps even higher.
I think you're confusing this with an old 6 SEER unit.
There's no HP's I know of made in the last ten years that would run
head pressures that high. Remember my subcooling is high, not low.
If the unusual TXV/SH specs are correct on the unit plate then its more
likely to be overcharged than undercharged.
When I got home my neighbor called & told me he forgot to turn his
thermostat back up when I left yesterday. He left & when he came home it
was 64 degrees in his house. He said it was like an icebox in his house so
whatever I did must have fixed his unit. Like I said the unit was running
almost exactly like the specs on the chart showed it should & hasn't had a
problem cooling since I left. My job is get the system to cool & try & get
it working as close to manufacture specs as I can. I think what really
fixed the system (which has nothing to do with the charge which is why I
never mentioned it) is replacing the contactor. It was extremely noisy
though still working & if I pushed it in with a screw driver it quieted
down so I thought it might be intermittently not bringing on the
compressor. It looked like ants had gotten in the contacts & they were
burnt pretty bad. The owner was happy just to have the unit quiet down.
So you are saying you have no idea what you did or how you did it but
now his unit "seems" to be working better?
Not exactly the type of "tech" Id want working on my A/C, car, teeth
or heart. I didnt know that guessing was part of good service.
That's exactly what I'm saying.
If you've never been to a unit that was cooling fine when you got there &
the owner said it went out the day before then you're a lucky guy.
Sometimes with an intermittent problem you have make an educated &
practical guess unless the cause is apparent. If you've ever been to a
unit freezing up with an intermittent problem with a blower relay you'll
understand about guessing. When I got to the unit it had been off all
night. The owner told me he came home & water was dripping out of his
eave(secondary) & his house was extremely hot so he turned the system off.
The system turned right on when I got there so I vacuumed out the drain
line assuming it might be a float switch that tripped or maybe a frozen
coil. If you read my first post you'll understand I was just doing
something quick & easy to try to get him running til Monday. When I
checked the pressures & the unit specs that was what really threw me. He
asked me about the noise which I thought was the compressor but when I
checked it without the high voltage on it was obviously the contactor.
When I went back up in the attic Monday to check the AH I foundthat there
wasn't any float switch installed so my first assumption was obviously
wrong which is what leads me to believe the contactor was intermittently
not closing all the time. With the humidity out of the house the TD has
gotten better though not what I like but it's cooling fine.
End of story.
If you have no idea and it is your own unit, then thats fine.
When it is someone's unit and you are charging them for your
professional services and expertese and your only answer is,
"Uh, I dunno, Im not sure, Im just guessing" then that runs into a
little problem in my book.
Thats the end of the story.
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