Is it normal for an iQ228 dry cut saw to leave jagged edges on stone offcuts?

The grabbing issue on the iQ228 usually happens beacuse the blade is starting to glaze over or you're babying the cut too much. If you're cutting a lot of hard stone, those diamond segments can get smooth and stop biting. When that happens, the blade starts bouncing or grabbing instead of slicing. Try running a **dressing stone** through the blade for a few passes to expose fresh diamonds. It sounds counter-intuitive to go faster when you’re worried about the finish, but if you feed it too slow, you’re just generating heat and friction rather than letting the saw do the work.

For those smaller rectangular offcuts, the lack of surface area against the table is prolly your biggest enemy. Small pieces tend to vibrate or shift mid-cut, which leads to that jagged, chewed-up edge. Try using a sacrificial piece of 1/4-inch plywood or even a flat scrap of lumber as a "sled" under the stone. It supports the material all the way through the cut and prevents the blade from blowing out the back edge when you finish the pass.

Also, keep an eye on your dust collection. If the vacuum filter is getting clogged, the dust builds up in the kerf and creates more resistance. That extra friction makes the blade walk or chatter, especially on thin trims. Since you’re already big on PPE, you probably know how much dust these dry saws can kick up if the vacuum isn't at 100%. Give the filter a solid pulse or a clean-out and see if your cut quality improves.

If the edge is still looking a bit raw, check the blade alignment. Even a tiny fraction of an inch off-parallel can cause the back of the blade to catch the stone on the way through. It’s a common quirk with portable dry saws after they've been moved around a lot. Dialing in that fence and ensuring your **feed pressure** is steady—not hesitant—should get you those clean edges without needing to touch the sander.

Good to see someone actualy wearing thier goggles for once. Back when we only had the old Target gas saws, you'd be spitting grit for a week after a patio job. Regarding those small bits, if the sled trick doesn't do it, check your blade height. If you've got too much blade exposed above the stone, the teeth are hitting at a steep angle and trying to lift the material instead of pushing it down into the table. I always liked to set the depth so the gullets just barely cleared the bottom of the stone. Keeps things stable. Are you using the stock blade that came with the iQ, or did you swap for a continuous rim?

I'm super new to this and honestly half the stuff you guys are saying sounds like a diferent language. What exactly does a 'dressing stone' look like? Is it just a regular brick or somthing special I have to buy at the hardware store? I'm always scared I'm going to ruin the blade if I push it too hard, so the 'feed it faster' advice is a bit nerve-wracking for a rookie. Also, for the sled trick, do you need to clamp the stone to the plywood? I don't want to get my fingers anywhere near that blade while it's spinning.

Spot on with the sled and blade height tips. To add to that, since you mentioned the iQ228 specifically, check the rollers on your sliding table. If even a tiny bit of stone grit gets stuck in those tracks, it creates a microscopic 'hiccup' when you're pushing the stone thru. That tiny jump is usally what causes the blade to grab and chew the edge on those lighter offcuts. I always keep a stiff nylon brush handy to sweep the rails between every few cuts. It keeps the glide smooth so you aren't fighting the table and the stone at the same time.