I can see we are talking sevaral many different things. A rock driveway
1) crushed gravel. Here landscape fabric will do no good because the
crushed gravel will cut it to shreads. If there is a grade, the stone
will all end up at the bottom. Also, the area next to a paved highway
will constantly need repair from the torquing of stone when pulling onto
the highway. There will be a constant growth of weeds and grass and
insects will build nests under the gravel. Usually the best pavement is
a mix of crushed gravel and clay. It tends to pack down and form a very
hard surface. I used this in Maine and it worked great. There was no
maintenance and it held up to heavy equipment.
2) cobble stone. Here a good base made from clay soil covered with
separation fabric, and then 8 to 12 inches of compacted aggregate base
is important. Then on top of the compacted aggregate base is the
bedding leayer. The material for the bedding layer should be coarse
concrete sand. Do not use stone dust or screenings; they do not allow
the pavers to "seat" properly and do not allow for drainage. The sand
should be an even 1 thick layer. Do not compact the sand setting bed.
In this case it is important to use a separation fabric (e.g., Mirafi s
500X). The fabric is laid on top of the compacted soil in the excavated
area and keeps the aggregate base material from working its way down
into the soil subgrade. This is especially important where the soil
contains a lot of clay. At a cost of pennies per square foot, the
separation fabric provides an insurance policy against base failure.
Then the stone is placed on the sand bed. Then the space between the
stones is filled with sand. The proper sand for sweeping into the joints
between pavers is either mason's sand or coarse washed concrete sand.
Both of these have a larger grain size than play sand, which will tend
to blow or wash out. If you wish to stabilize the sand in the joints
between your pavers to prevent washout and to thwart weeds and insects,
use either EP Henry's Polysand or Techni-Seal's Polymeric Sand.
Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging
in, the joint sand. This can be minimized by adding SandLock to your
sand or by sealing the pavers or mixing a pre-emergent granular weed
killer into the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer
(such as Round-Up) can be used and will not damage the pavers.
3) cut stone pavers. Similar to cobble stone but thinner and more
uniform in size and thickness. They are usually 2 3/8 inches thick.
Installation is the same.
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to firstname.lastname@example.org
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
Click to see the full signature.