ground cover versus Roundup

Are there any ground covers that are compatible with (not killed by) Roundup?

We have some bare areas, (idiot) gardner has always just sprayed Roundup there. I didn't even realize that's what he was doing, until recently.

So, maybe I can try some ground covers, creeping thyme, red clover, seedum, maybe some mosses. Are any of these more or less compatible with Roundup in between or nearby, or even right on top?

Thanx.

J.

Reply to
JRStern
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My brother used to plant plots of clover before deer season. He would till the area and spray with Roundup about a month and a half - two months before he planted. The white clover always done just fine :)

Rich

Reply to
EVP MAN

What kinds of weeds are the problem? If they are grasses, there are herbicides that kill only grass and leave most broad-leaf plants alone.

As for plants that are resistent to RoundUp, you will have to ask Monsanto. They are constantly developing RoundUp-resistent crops through genetic engineering.

Reply to
David E. Ross

Not if the gardener is going to keep spraying Roundup there. However, if you are asking if you can plant where Roundup was sprayed in the past, then yes, you can plant in that spot. Roundup is considered to be a non-residual herbicide.

Reply to
FarmI

Not really necessary...

There are no ground covers which will survive a glyphosate (Roundup's active ingredient) application. If Roundup is sprayed near plants and applied properly, it will not drift and your plants should be fine. As far as planting in soil which has been sprayed with glyphosate, it can be done almost immediately as there are no residual effects.

Reply to
troyc

OK, thanks.

I should probably have the gardener put in the ground cover, he'll maybe be more responsible about it that way.

J.

Reply to
JRStern

I suspect that will help! :-) Good luck with your garden!

Reply to
troyc

The main concept of ground cover is to behave as an invasive living mulch that smothers other plant growth... simply till and plant ground cover... there is no beneficial reason to spray the area with defolient prior to planting. Any "weed" seeds already in the ground and/or new arrivals will not be affected by defolient anyway and once you plant ground cover you can't use a defolient on newly emerging weeds without killing your new ground cover plants. Regardless what you do there will always be weeds to deal with, the trick is to reduce the probability of weed growth without negatively affecting your new plantings. I would cover the newly tilled area with a layer of straw and then put in my ground cover plants... the straw will act as a short term mulch that will significantly inhibit weed growth until the ground cover gets a good start. Straw is cheap, needs no tools to apply other than your hands and becomes composted quickly which amends the soil, much better than costly, dangerous, and pervasive chemicals. Even if your ground cover is a newly seeded lawn covering the seed with straw will encourage faster germination by retaining moisture and will deter the birds from eating your seed.

Reply to
brooklyn1

After many attempts at eradicating it I've determined that the English Ivy (which is attempting to swallow the wooded area in front of my house and acting like kudzu) is pretty much immune to Roundup, even when mixed to the "brush killer" strength. The waxy cuticle on the leaves seems to prevent them from taking up the glyphosate and even adding a wetting agent to the spray doesn't seem to make it work much better.

Reply to
John McGaw

Yes, Roundup is known to be relatively weak on vines (such as wild morningglories). One thing you can do is add a couple ounces of ammonium sulfate (if it's available to you) to the water & dissolve before adding in the Roundup. The active ingredient in Roundup (glyphosate) is very polar and will attach to minerals such as calcium in the water, 'tying it up' and not letting it be available to enter the plant cells. If added first, ammonium sulfate will attach to the ions in the water and leave the glyphosate free to do its job.

Reply to
troyc

On Feb 19, 11:42=A0am, brooklyn1 wrote: ... the straw will act as a

Make sure you get clean straw (straw can be full of weeds & seeds), and don't work it in to the soil - lay it on top. Straw worked in to the soil will rob nitrogen for a time as it decays.

Reply to
troyc

How about some bark chips? unlikely to include seeds.

J.

Reply to
JRStern

Up to you & depends. If the area will remain exposed, bark mulch will certainly look nice (if a fresh layer is 'top-dressed' yearly). And if applied thickly it will hold back weeds fairly well (you will still have some weeds regardless - Mother Nature is tenacious).

If it's all going to be buried under your ground cover eventually anyway, clean straw is probably better. DEFINITELY don't till in wood chips unless you want to be adding N fertilizer for the rest of your life.

Reply to
troyc

There are seeds in the ground naturally, with new seeds added to the mix constantly, naturally, from many sources, by many means, by wind, bird excrement, etc. What one needs to grasp is that the straw will deter germination/propagation of most seeds, even its own seeds, while giving the ground cover plants time to take hold. Once ground cover begins to propogate it takes care of whatever few weeds escape... certain plants are called ground cover for a reason, thier growth habit surpasses competition. A secondary purpose of ground cover could be to deter erosion but primarily to ensure that no other plants compete, which is why it's important to choose the correct ground cover for the locale... often folks indescriminately choose a ground cover because they think it's handsome but if it can't compete with native plants it would not become a sucessful ground cover.

That's what I said, why would someone work straw into the soil when it's purpose is a mulch? The concept of using straw as a mulch as averse to a more sturdy mulching material, is that it will decompose at about the same rate a ground cover grows. Didn't you read and undertand what I wrote?

Reply to
brooklyn1

It will only deter germination on seeds which are at the bottom of the pile, most of which will be. However, trust me, I have seen people increase their weed issues with dirty straw.

Yes, quite correct.

I understood it perfectly - no need to be snotty about it. We're having a reasonable discussion here.

I wrote that as a caution, because *I've seen people do it* (and stunt their plants in the process). They do it because they think if they work a load of straw in next to their plants it will deter weeds and provide nutrients in the process - not realizing the high C:N ratio will tie up nitrogen for awhile. My reply was a caution to the person who who was asking the original question in the thread. Chill out.

Reply to
troyc

I've had luck mowing (string trimmer works quick) the ivy first, then applying the roundup to the new growth. The new leaves seem to be less "waxy", and are easier to attack.

Of course, this is a process I have to repeat 3 or 4 times before the ivy will actually give up.

Reply to
david

You're being snotty, and rude. If your reply was meant for the OP then that's to whom you should have replied, and in a timely fashion. Actually you added nothing, you attempted to credit yourself by hijacking my suggestions, you are also smarmy.

Reply to
brooklyn1

Wow.

Suit yourself. Have a nice day.

Reply to
troyc

I add liquid soap to almost any spray I use. This is an excellent wetting agent, even on waxy or fuzzy leaves.

Reply to
David E. Ross

I've found that Roundup works much better on a hot sunny day.

Reply to
brooklyn1

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