my amaryllis have been outside for the summer, but show no sign of dying
back yet. how do i get them ready to rest so i get blooms again?
oh, and at what age can i expect a bulblet to be big enough to bloom?
should i pot it seperately when i repot the parent? (it's 2 years old &
Good questions. I have an amaryllis that I got from Home Depot a few
years ago at the end of the season. I planted it and it grew and
bloomed. After it bloomed I put it in the garage and didn't water
it. It finally died back. I put it outside again and it grew and
bloomed nicely. I left it outside all year since I live in the south
and it has rebloomed again this year, without dying back.
We'll see what happens next year, as I don't plan on bringing it
indoors this fall either.
Where do you live (what zone)? Do you have freezing temperatures in winter?
If you have freezing temperatures you should dig your bulb and let it dry.
You can pot it and cut back on the water gradually or just cut the water off
completely now. The leaves will die. Then the bulb needs 6 or more weeks
in a cool place, 55 F or cooler. During this cool time it will produce
flower buds inside the bulb. Then replant it and water it at your
Bulblets can be removed and planted separately when they are the size of a
Too bad there are no websites with information on growing Amaryllis or bulbs
in general nor is there such thing as a google search to find them.
We may never be able to find any way to get the answers to your basic
yeah, sad isn't it? :)
BTW, Google can't find any info on ox harness... or ox harness. you'd
think *someone* would have info on making a bow & chain set-up...
lee <it was late, i was lazy. asking a garden group a garden question is
With the recent overhaul of the Opuntioid genera as well as the naming of a
number of new species, all the available field guides are now completely
out-of-date. Its about time for something newer than Lyman Benson's 1983
Do not use the internet as your primary source of information either. Most
of the pictures on-line are posted by amateur entusiasts and many are either
with obsolete names or misidentifed.
If you are in zone 9 you can leave them outside in a sheltered spot. I have
6 by my front door that started out as just one bulb. I leave mine in the
ground and let the grass grow up around them as mulch. They love to be
crowded and mine have survived flood, drought, being mowed, weed whacked,
and replanted three times within 2 weeks. I get blooms twice a year between
25 and 35 blooms. Basically mine have naturalized in the spot by the front
door. I don't fertilize either, just what they get from decomposing grass
We grow them in the ground here in Zone 8. But we also keep some in pots for
winter blooming. After years of playing with the timing we've hit on a
fairly good pattern. Grow them with lots of water and fertilizer until mid
to late August. The number of bloom stems is directly related to the number
and size of bulb scales added and therefore also to the number and good
growth of leaves. We then dry them off completely until most foliage is
dead. Then we clean them and divide if necessary (roots can live more than 1
year- remove only dead ones), dip in insecticide for possible insects; treat
cut areas with powdered sulfur; dry some more; repot in barely most soil and
don't water (you can mist some to prevent further dehydration if that seems
to be a problem) until the tops start up. Some of ours are already sending
up bloom stems and others have some new green growth tips. Most of ours go
through multiple bloom periods this way without any further treatments. I
know some people do what we do and then refrigerate to delay the bloom stem
until the holiday season. Ours usually send up a second bloom stem around
the holiday season, so why bother with the refigerator? Plus they have a
lush green growth with the bloom instead of a naked stem.
Dwarfs will flower when about 1-1 1/2 inches across but we've rarely had a
full sized flower from a bulb less than 2 1/2 - 3" across (4-5" is better
for full sized blooms). Hope this helps you.
Often, there is confusion between Amaryllis belladonna (commonly
called "naked lady" or "belladonna lily") and various species and
hybrids of Hippeastrum (commonly called "amaryllis"). While both
are natives of similar climates, their care and culture differ.
See my <http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_hippeastrum.html .
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean
The directions that came with my first Amaryllis said "after the
leaves die down and before first frost..." bring the pot in to
overwinter in a cool, dry place. Well, my leaves didn't die down
either, and I found myself in the back yard with a flashlight after
hearing a late forecast of "frost tonight." Have since learned a light
frost isn't lethal. :-) If the leaves haven't died off, just bring
the pot in around the time of frost and store it, without watering,
for 2-3 months. The leaves *will* die then. The bulb may signal
readiness to grow by putting up new leaf shoots, which is the time to
bring it inside and begin watering. Otherwise, after a cool dormant
period, bring it indoors and water, and new shoots should appear.
Amaryllis is said to enjoy being "crowded" in the pot, so I transplant
infrequently. If a 'baby' bulb looks viable (quarter sized bulb would
seem well-established), I split it off and give it its own pot then.
In addition to amaryllis, I thought I had hippeaster, an amaryllis
lookalike, but a landscape architect pointed out it was actually chrinum
morea (not sure spelling is correct). In my garden books, all three look
very similar. In my climate (Los Angeles, Sunset zone 23), I don't remove
from the ground except when bulbs get very crowded. They seem to bloom at
least twice a year. I give them water when it is very dry. Some of the
stalks grow to be almost 3 feet high--the amaryllis that is. The Chrinum
gets very large and spreads out, also has offsets, and look great when
crowded. The flowers are long lasting, but plants blooms only once a year.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.