How do I handle a neutral bar blocking my open breaker slots?

Your inspector gave you bad advice regarding those bottom slots. If there is a jumper bar physically blocking the bus stabs, those slots are not meant for breakers in your specific panel configuration. Home inspectors often mistake physical space for functional capacity. Also, just for your peace of mind, you didn't "fail" anything; it's just a report of deficiencies that needs to be addressed before the sale or for safety.

Do not remove or move that **bonding bar**. It's there to ensure both neutral bus bars are at the same potential and, depending on your setup, it might be the main bond between your neutral and ground. Messing with the internal structure of the panel like that is a huge mistake. If the manufacturer didn't intend for breakers to go there with that bar in place, then they don't go there.

The real fix doesn't involve adding new breakers at all. You just need to **pigtail** those connections. Take the two wires off the double-tapped breaker, grab a short 6-inch piece of the same gauge wire (12 AWG for a 20-amp circuit), and join all three togather with a wire nut or a lever connector. Then, take that single "tail" wire and land it back onto the original breaker. Now you have one wire under the lug, wich satisfies the code requirement, and both circuits are still protected.

Since you mentioned dust and corrosion, make sure you're working with the main breaker off. Use a wire brush or some sandpaper to clean any oxidation off the copper before you make your new splice. If the box is relly crowded, just be careful not to pinch any insulation when you're tucking the pigtail back in. This is much safer than trying to force new breakers into a space that wasn't engineered for them.

Pigtailing sounds way safer. I almost unscrewed that bar, so glad I checked here first. Quick question though—since you mentioned the corrosion, shold I use some of that anti-oxidant paste on the wires before I twist them togather? My house is older and I’m worried about the connection getting hot if it's not perfect. Also, is there a specific type of wire nut that’s better for 12-gauge? I don't want to buy the cheap ones if it makes a difference for safety.

You realy only need that anti-oxidant paste if you're dealing with old aluminum wiring. If it's copper, just scrubbing it clean with a bit of sandpaper is usually enugh to get a solid connection. For the 12-gauge pigtail, a standard red wire nut or those tan 'Twister' ones work great.

If the panel is as crowded as you say, check out Wago 221 lever nuts. They're way slimmer than traditional nuts and make it alot easier to fold the wires back into a tight spot without stressing the connections. Just make sure the copper is shiny before you snap them shut.

Check the brand of those breakers before you do the pigtails. If you've got Square D QO or certain Cutler-Hammer ones, the lugs are actualy designed to hold two wires. Look for a little diagram on the side of the breaker or a marking that shows two conductors. If it's rated for it, you can just show the inspector the manufacturer's spec and call it a day.

Also, since you mentioned dust, use a shop vac with a plastic nozzle to clean it out. definately don't use compressed air or you'll just blow metallic dust into the bus bars and cause a short. Stay safe while you're in there.

Since the last guy got cut off, he was likely going to suggest a shop vac. Use a plastic nozzle to avoid accidental shorts, even with the main breaker off. While you're cleaning that dust, take a close look at the insulation on those wires you’re pigtailing. If the panel's been running hot or has corrosion, older insulation gets brittle and can crack when you move things around. If it flakes off, wrap it with some high-quality electrical tape or heat shrink before you tuck everthing back in. It’s a small detail, but it prevents a potential ground fault once you close the dead front.