Thank goodness, I received only one catalog this year and that from a particularly hard-headed vendor. I have no interest in them and the coated stock on which many are printed isn't even good for starting a fire! Did receive what should be my only seed order for the spring season last week. Still looking for a suitable "French" filet bean to replace the Delinel variety that I grew for so many years, so this year's package includes two "new-to-me" varieties. Down here, bulbing onions generally are transplanted in December. Those grown for their tops only may be planted in all but the hottest months because, even under the best conditions, they'll never make bulbs down herenot even "global warming" is going to change day length. This past fall, I direct seeded the cooking onions in one bed and they are doing as well as the transplants so that's what I'll do next fall. The onions seem to be getting along with the garlic, carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli raab and bok choy with which they're sharing beds and (most of) which will be long gone by the time the onions are ready.
What does that mean?
What would it otherwise do andassuming a relationship to temperatureat what temperature range would you expect the garlic to do it?
I'm inferring the absence of snow cover; if cold weather usually kills the tops h ow cold does it have to get and for how long?
My garlic (a warm climate "Creole" variety) spent two months in the 'fridge at ±33° before planting and is growing apace: The first planting is now approximately 28" tall (measured it this morning) and the second, set out two weeks later, is not far behind. Down here, temps in the low 30's are occasional (and of short durationhours); those in the 20's, unusual. I cover the garlic when expected overnight lows would harm the mustard and the turnip greens (near freezing). Can I assume the garlic in full flush to be hardy to those temps? If so, I'll stop wasting my time, then. I don't have enough planted this year to "test" but next year I'll set some in a container that will remain exposed.
Lemme know how that works out. I'm pessimistic. Freezing ruptures cell walls (not necessarily a "bad" thing) and does not destroy the chlorophyll. Proper low-temperature drying reduces moisture, concentrates flavor, mellows volatile aromatics (chew a fresh bay leaf to see what I mean), leaves cell walls intact (not necessarily a "good" thing) and destroys chlorophyll, which is harsh and bitter.
Wow. Now, I feel absolutely primitive. I still use a spiral-bound notebook to track that info, with the addition of harvest dates and yields plus the date each vegetable is removed from the garden. Seed sources are not an issue because I buy from only two sources. I use a fairly sophisticated computer graphics program to record and reference my garden. The base layer (virtual overlay) holds a to-scale outline drawing of the entire garden. Each major planting ("season") gets a layer of its own on which I can enter (text), planting date, number planted, emergence, first harvest, removal in the respective beds or containers. I also record whether I had to fill-in or replant. My gardening "year" starts with February "spring" planting. Each year is an individual file that contains the complete history to date. Sounds complex but isn't and really makes it easy to keep up with rotation. At least I am not (yet) obsessive enough to import actual photos of plants but I can see where doing so would save some typing.
Fix the same stuff each time? Shoot, fix it and write the whole ball of waxor, at least, the fixesto a CD, maybe?
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