Thank goodness, I received only one catalog this year and that from
a particularly hard-headed vendor. I have no interest in them and the
coated stock on which many are printed isn't even good for starting a
fire! Did receive what should be my only seed order for the spring
season last week. Still looking for a suitable "French" filet bean to
replace the Delinel variety that I grew for so many years, so this
year's package includes two "new-to-me" varieties. Down here, bulbing
onions generally are transplanted in December. Those grown for their
tops only may be planted in all but the hottest months because, even
under the best conditions, they'll never make bulbs down herenot even
"global warming" is going to change day length. This past fall, I
direct seeded the cooking onions in one bed and they are doing as well
as the transplants so that's what I'll do next fall. The onions seem to
be getting along with the garlic, carrots, lettuce, cauliflower,
broccoli raab and bok choy with which they're sharing beds and (most of)
which will be long gone by the time the onions are ready.
What does that mean?
What would it otherwise do andassuming a relationship to
temperatureat what temperature range would you expect the garlic to do
I'm inferring the absence of snow cover; if cold weather usually kills
the tops h ow cold does it have to get and for how long?
My garlic (a warm climate "Creole" variety) spent two months in the
'fridge at ±33° before planting and is growing apace: The first
planting is now approximately 28" tall (measured it this morning) and
the second, set out two weeks later, is not far behind. Down here,
temps in the low 30's are occasional (and of short durationhours);
those in the 20's, unusual. I cover the garlic when expected overnight
lows would harm the mustard and the turnip greens (near freezing). Can
I assume the garlic in full flush to be hardy to those temps? If so,
I'll stop wasting my time, then. I don't have enough planted this year
to "test" but next year I'll set some in a container that will remain
Lemme know how that works out. I'm pessimistic. Freezing ruptures
cell walls (not necessarily a "bad" thing) and does not destroy the
chlorophyll. Proper low-temperature drying reduces moisture,
concentrates flavor, mellows volatile aromatics (chew a fresh bay leaf
to see what I mean), leaves cell walls intact (not necessarily a "good"
thing) and destroys chlorophyll, which is harsh and bitter.
Wow. Now, I feel absolutely primitive. I still use a spiral-bound
notebook to track that info, with the addition of harvest dates and
yields plus the date each vegetable is removed from the garden. Seed
sources are not an issue because I buy from only two sources.
I use a fairly sophisticated computer graphics program to record
and reference my garden. The base layer (virtual overlay) holds a
to-scale outline drawing of the entire garden. Each major planting
("season") gets a layer of its own on which I can enter (text), planting
date, number planted, emergence, first harvest, removal in the
respective beds or containers. I also record whether I had to fill-in
or replant. My gardening "year" starts with February "spring" planting.
Each year is an individual file that contains the complete history to
date. Sounds complex but isn't and really makes it easy to keep up with
rotation. At least I am not (yet) obsessive enough to import actual
photos of plants but I can see where doing so would save some typing.
Fix the same stuff each time? Shoot, fix it and write the whole
ball of waxor, at least, the fixesto a CD, maybe?
As far as I remember, the cold here has never killed the garlic. It's
just that 20°F is miserably cold. The garlic was planted in last
October and is about 6" tall. I buy garlic from Costco and use the
largest cloves for planting. After this year I will start again to
save the largest cloves for planting. I had been doing that for
several years but last year was such a flop that I started over.
I just dumped them into a container that will go to the compost box.
Win 7 is not as easy to deal with as Win XP was. Once I remembered
that backed up files were read only, I changed them and things started
Thanks. I'll not cover mine unless some of its companions need
protection. I did not plant garlic until the end of November, after the
weather began to cool a bit. It already is over 2' tall, on average.
One bed is interplanted with mustard and turnips and another with a
variety of cool weather veggies.
I bought garlic from a Texas grower for a while but his 2012 crop
failure caused me to shop around for another vendor as well as for a
variety better suited to the warm humid Gulf coast climate. Settled on
a grower in Arizona (warm but definitely not humid) and hope to produce
starts of my own that might be better suited to this environment. Down
here, the sudden onset of unrelenting hot weather in April or May causes
garlic heads to divide before they're fully mature but the Creoles came
to North Amereica via the Caribbean and Mexico and are, reputedly,
better suited to peninsular Florida's warm winters and short cool
season. We'll see....
Probably a good move :-). I just grow the frost-tender stuff in
containers small enough to move into shelter. I expend more effort
protecting sweet marjoram, thyme, oregano and tarragon from the harsh
sun and from too much rain than from cold. I'm some distance south of
the "official" ranges for those but they do well in open shade with only
morning sun so I move them around as the seasons progress.
Good to know. I "upgrade" only when software and/or web sites that
I "need" no longer function. I'm still running Win2k on one box and
WinXP on another. Will keep an obsolete O/S at least one because the
graphics app I mentioned is a ca 1990's port from Mac to 16-bit Window$
and, AFAIK, new "improved" Windows won't run 16-bit programs.
when we get through to where the snow melts back i'll
be able to see how well that garlic you sent me held up
to the cold.
i'm suspecting that garlic regularly grown in the
Carribean may be a bit tender in comparison to the
garlic i've grown here for many years.
the hard-neck type has stayed green and kept
looking nice at least down to 17F when not snow
covered. under snow it seems to be fine no matter
what happens upstairs. for damage i think it takes
several days of dry freeze 15F or lower. but then
it comes back in the spring anyways and does fine.
that happened last season as we did not have much
snow cover during a severe cold spell. i still
had nice heads of garlic. this winter is being
much colder in comparison, but plenty of snow
sadly enough, the lady who gave me the garlic
passed away last Sunday at a ripe age of 88.
peacefully and at home so that was good to hear,
but still will miss her as she was quite the
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