I've had good luck with beneficial nematodes seeded into the ground,
they get a lot of the SVB's while they are still in the ground.
Otherwise look for the frasse, caterpillar poop, then squash the worms.
Hard to get ahead of them unless you're checking twice a day.
Do the borers bother those Tatume squash, George? The stems (except for
the leaf stems) are solid instead of hollow like a bush squash. So the
borers are supposed to just kill a couple of leaves and not the whole
vine -- plus the vines root at every node which gives them some
additional insurance against borers.
I've had more trouble with cucumber beetles than borers.
As far as I know that only works on those worms that feed on cabbage family
plants and horn worms on tomatoes. I can be wrong.
I've tried the slitting and squashing the borers but the plants always
managed to die or were so sick they produced almost nothing afterward even
when the vine was covered with soil. I'd end up ripping them out and
The products we have now are almost useless for insect control. The insects
and bugs have developed a good immunity to just about anything you'll find
on the store shelves. Those that worked, like Kelthane for mites, Dursban
and Chlordane were taken off the market - or you need a lic. to purchase
them. I'd like to know what the commercial growers are using.
I didn't see your post until now Bob. The Tatume are vine borer
resistant and are a tasty squash. Left to grow large they more closely
resemble their cousins, the pumpkins. Haven't tried to store them in the
raw state as we live in USDA Zone 9b and it is generally too warm to
store veggies. The Tatume will grow up an eighty foot oak tree if
planted too close to one so be careful.
I grow them on nylon netting strung on steel fence posts along one edge
of the big garden. I just keep looping the runners back on themselves
and they bear until first frost, generally that is December or January
for us. HTH
The ones we have I was told don't come from the soil. A flying insect lays
an egg on the stem and it hatches and bores in. Crushing the stem kills the
plant. How do you squash it in the vine and not crush the stem as well?
You catch them at the intermediate stage, the flying insect lays the
eggs (you can spot them if you look closely), the larvae hatch and bore
into the vine, squash them, cover the stem with dirt and the plant lives
on. The intermediate stage is when the larvae go into the dirt and live
there awhile prior to developing into the flight stage. That's when the
nematodes get them. Takes a couple of years to get most of them and then
you start getting squash.
Alternative: grow cucuzzi (Google the word), it's an edible gourd with a
hard vine, borers don't bother them. Hercules War Club gourd is another
edible one. Pick them at about six to eight inches long, cook just like
squash. That's what we grew while the nematodes worked their magic.
The best thing I have found was to rotate my crop. Put as much space as you
can between this years and last years plantings.
Next, buy and grow squash that are more resisistant to squash bugs and
borers. Yellow and zucchini are the first to go. Butternut and other
winter are the last.
Last, plant a couple rows of sacrificial squash as early in the spring as
you can, and a month or so later (depending upon where you live), the ones
you want to keep for yourself.
Good luck. Dwayne
I ran into your message quite accidentally while researching about
some details on 'Low Carb Diets' and thought of sharing some of my
I've read at 'http://www.medical-health-care-information.com/Health -
that Make every carbohydrate count. When you eat carbohydrates, reach
for complex carbohydrates such as whole grain breads and pasta,
legumes, nonstarchy fruits, and vegetables.
Pick produce that triggers lower glucose response. Fruits and
vegetables with the lowest glycemic index include apples, apricots,
asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, cherries,
cucumber, grapefruit, green beans, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, plums,
spinach, strawberries, sweet peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini. Moderate-
GI produce includes cantaloupe, grapes, oranges, orange juice,
peaches, peas, pineapple, yams, and watermelon. High-GI fruits and
vegetables include bananas, beets, carrots, corn, potatoes, and
I hope the above is of some help to you as well. Regards, Sherrybove
That's pretty much what I've done. I've given up all refined carbs and most
of the starchy veggies. Starchy veggies are much higher in calories as
well. When I do eat them I limit the amount to less than 1/2 a cup.
The above are mainly what I'm eating. :0)
Yes, thanks. After awhile you don't even miss the carby foods. I've lost
45 lbs so far and feel a heck of a lot better.
I was reading my old Organic Gardening magazines recently where a
subscriber wrote a letter saying that he used Vicks Vaporub on the squash
stems and that defeated the borers. I have not tried this method yet, but
I plan to. My neighbor dusts with BT every few days, and that seems to
work for him.
After each rain I spray the stems next to the ground with BT. I also
spray my cabbage plants and that gets the cabbage worm.
From Mel & Donnie in Bluebird Valley
I hate to rain on your parade, but my solution is: plant more squash.
I've never had success controlling borers.
One thing that squeezes out a few more weeks from my squash is to
observe the stems closely for the bores (and yellow worm poo). Slice
the stem parallel to the xylem (parallel to the stem) and peel the stem
open. Dig out the offending borer. Don't cut across the xylem or
you'll sever the tubes that carry water up the stems to the leaves.
Hope this helps a bit. I share in your frustration about borers...
Manelli Family wrote:
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