BT AKA Bacillus Thurigensis works quite well. It's the spores of a disease
that kills cabbage moth larvae (the green worms in question). The stuff I
got is a powder you mix with water and spray on the plants. The worms stop
feeding almost immediately after ingesting it, and die a few days later.
Harmless to people, unless great-great-great grandpa was a cabbage moth.
There are varieties that work well on potato beetles as well.
You need to re-apply after a rain if there are still worms present.
See also "bug juice," though the family may not want to use that blender
for marguerites afterward...
Gary Woods AKA K2AHC- PGP key on request, or at www.albany.net/~gwoods
Zone 5/6 in upstate New York, 1200' elevation. NY WO G
They are probably the caterpillar of the cabbage moth. Hand-picking is
usually enough for us; it's better to squish the small eggs usually deposited
on the leaf undersides. Occasionally I send my moth-killer son out with a
badminton racket to swipe at (and sometimes kill) the white moths. Another
strategy is to cover the broccoli with a floating row cover (i.e. Reemay).
And there are agents like BT (baccillus thuringensis [sp?]).
I remember the problem when we lived up north and Bt was about the only
answer. Since we've been in the deep south for the last 25 years, we haven't
had the problem. The answer here is that we only plant and grow broccoli,
cabbage, collards, kale, and other brassicas during the late fall, winter
and early spring when the cabbage moths aren't around. That works out nicely
since the brassicas won't grow in our spring to fall heat. If you can match
your growing season to the off cabbage worm season, it might help some along
with the Bt.
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