er, well, some can be and others aren't as much but
it is going to depend upon your climate and soil.
here i have certain varieties that have done well
over the years and others that struggle (planted right
next to each other in the same soil so they are
treated the same in terms of climate and watering).
the hard part there is going to be how to get 50-60
days before it gets really hot out as i think then the
plants may have a hard time setting pods and keeping
them - but perhaps this variety will hold up longer.
dunno until you try. :)
wish they had pictures of the seeds.
sprouts are about 3mm across, start them in 1 gallon
containers early and plant them out when the weather
gets warm enough and you can get a jump start on the
ear wig traps can thin out the population.
no support should be needed at first but as the
plants get bigger they can fall over if they have
a lot of beans on them and the wind/rain is strong
enough or as they get older and begin to die off
then the roots will not support the plant any more
and it can fall over.
since you aren't interested in much of a dry bean
harvest pick off the beans before they get too old
and eat them. a few pods can be left to get seeds
to full size and then you can remove those for seed
saving for the next year(s) plantings.
Well,no; at least down here, in this soil and climate, they aren't.
In fact, one might say they're snap-bean easy. By many folks across
the U.S South green beans, consumed pods-and-all, are called "snap
beans": So named because of the sound made when the pods are broken to
Useless trivia: "Zydeco" means "snap bean" and refers to the ease with
which the musical style may be played or enjoyed, so I've been told by
one who'd know.
I can't address maturation times because I live where we easily have
time for two crops in a calendar year (planted in Sept.?Oct. and
Feb.?Apr.) At the times of both spring and fall planting, enough mild
days remain to ensure good results.
That's what they all say.... Just wait long enough and let them
I can't make any specific recommendations about soil amendments or
fertilizer. My standard procedure is to mix in loads of home-brew
compost along with loads of store-bought alfalfa pellets and it works.
Just as other legumes, green beans are nitrogen "fixers" which simply
means that?with a little help from some friends?beans can take
atmospheric nitrogen (N2) from the air and convert it to ammonium (N4),
a form useful to the plant. Some legumes can be induced to support more
of the nitrogen-fixing bacteria than needed, allowing some of them and
of the nitrogen to remain in the soil. There's more to it than I've
stated but the process isn't complex or expensive.
I can't vouch for Burpee seeds,either, but they sure have been
around for a while. As rule, I save seeds but when necessary I buy
seeds online from one of several sources tha offer so-called
"sustainably" grown and/or organic seeds. Saving seeds is not always a
good idea because there's a risk of transmitting infections to
It sometimes seems that everything that has a mouth likes bean
plants. Down here, major culprits are cutworms, grasshoppersand "root
knot" nematodes. Each of those may be controlled with "naturral"
some of the more modern beans have had this trait largely
reduced or eliminated as i'm finding in my own growing of
many varieties. some do not have many or any nodules at all
on the roots and others have plenty.
some of the bean plants here have been chewed off by
cutworms this season when i started out and i replanted
those. i could not find the culprit but i did get
enough plants to sprout to get some seeds back which is
why i was growing those particular plants.
what was interesting to me this season was that the
north garden (which doesn't have a fence around it) did
pretty well even if some of the bean plants were chewed
off by deer, rabbits or groundhogs.
the other day i weighed just one type of bean i grew and
it totaled over 23lbs with 12lbs coming from that one
garden (i don't keep track of how many beans i pick fresh
from the gardens so we did pick and eat some fresh beans
and also several pounds of shellies). for a very small
bean that is a large number of seeds. they're good eating
so we'll keep growing them as they're more reliable than
the pinto beans i've grown in the past.
My worst is earwigs! I am constantly killing as
many as I can and they still eat everything in sight.
Found a hot pepper last week with an earwig inside.
Ruined the thing. And I could not find how he got inside!
I don't pay much attention to the beans. They always seem to do
well and have good color. I typically grow bush types of Delinel,
provider, or slenderette, a so-called "filet" bean that produces
relatively small seeds and lends itself well to julienne slicing, not my
favorite way to prepare green beans but I don't live alone ).
I reduce and nearly eliminate root not by introducing a
cannibalistic variey of nematode which does an outstanding job or eating
the root knot ones before they can colonize the roots enough to damage
the plants. Trouble is, that when they run of food, they die or move.
When I start seeing cutworm damage, I try to find them and
skoosh'em, too, but the hunt is not always successful. For insurance, I
usually spray the plants with Bt. I know the cutworms must eat it for
it to have any effect but I figure the loss of another bean seedling or
two is a small price to pay. I'm able to keep the grasshoppers subdued
for several generations with "nolo". Although it's most effectve when
used pre-emergence, I generally wait until adults become a problem, to
reduce the chances of inducing immunity. Adult hoppers are so highky
mobile, they're almost impossible to control.
darned if I know what happened. You see, I have a left hand that has a
will but no mind of its own....
Continuing: it seems that sweet potatoes are among their favorites
because every time I try to grow them the tubers end up with distinct
channels on their surfaces that appear to have been left by some
creature randomly munching its way across.